Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Spring Cleaning - storage Solutions End Clutter, Build a storage Shed

Spring cleaning, if you are like me is a welcome convert to the long days of winter. And warehouse solutions are the secrets to ending all the seasonal clutter left from ole man winter. My first woodworking project for the year is going to be build a warehouse shed and solve all my embarrassing warehouse problems. Continue reading this article so you will see just how easy it no ifs ands or buts is.

Why Build a Shed Myself?

Carpentry Framing

1. Because it is rewarding and saves a lot of money too use on upgraded materials and features.

2. Building myself allows me to take my time, build at my own pace sort of speak.

3. Gives me the opening to tweak the shed originate as I remember extra needs I want to take care of. Most importantly I do not want to take part of my wood privacy fence down just to have a institution built shed delivered.

What Will I Need to Build My Shed

1. A set of shed plans I purchased online and downloaded in just a few minutes. They consist of a step by step set of instructions and a list of all the materials I will need for a successful project. Here is a tip for you, avoid the free shed plans, it is the ole bate and switch trick...

2. A good source to provide my materials, none of the cheep knotty twisted up stuff you get with one of the cheaper price kits on the market. With the money I save on somebody else labor construction it, I will buy the top capability materials: doors, windows and roofing shingles.

3. Most of the tools I will need I already have, but agreeing to my wife of 14 years I look for reasons to purchase a new shiny one every opening I get. All jokes aside, basic carpentry tools are all that you will need a claw hammer, speed square, level if you only want one get four footer and a chop saw or miter saw if you prefer. You will also need a combine step or A frame ladders tall adequate to put the roof on.

How to Build a warehouse Shed

1. I Start by ensuring that the location is level and well drained. Believe me, there is nothing worse than your construction standing in the middle of a large puddle of water and you want to get something out of it. Muddy feet aside, setting in water is bad for the building.

2. With the site level and well drained the next step is to build the foundation. For this project I am going to build a transported structure, a shed on skids, in my area this originate does not require a construction permit, which saves me money and the hassles of filling out all the paper work that is, required in the process.

3. I am using treated lumber skids that consist of 4 by 6 timbers 16 feet long as my foundation. I want a big shed, transported yes, but small no, size no ifs ands or buts dose matter. I want and need warehouse space and a work area for all my other woodworking projects I have the plans to build.

4. Once I have the skids in place by following the step by step instructions that are included in my set of construction plans, and specifications, the next step is to attach the floor joists to the skids. For my floor joists I am using 2 by 10 yellow pine boards that are 12 feet long.

5. After all the floor joists are in place the next step is to setup the flooring material. To ensure a sturdy floor that dose not flex under the weight of a heavy item. I use 4 by 8 sheets of plywood, 3/4 inch tongue and groove that locks the sheets together preventing, any up and down movement in the middle of the sheets where they butt together.

6. Upon completion of the floor, the constructions of the walls are next. Build the walls as a unit; laying on the flat exterior of the floor makes it easy to assemble all the wall frame components. The walls consist of a lowest plate, top plate, wall studs and headers for the windows and doors.

7. After the walls are constructed and standing on the floor the roof truss framing is the next step in the process. Refer to your set of plans for the proper angles you will need to cut for your rafters. This is the part of the project where a good miter saw is a time rescue tool that makes cutting the angles for the rafters unbelievably easy.

8. With the rafters built and standing tall, the next step is to attach the roof. I prefer to match the look of my house, so to do that I use the same shingles on the house. First attach the plywood decking to the rafters, followed by a layer of felt paper then the shingles.

Tip;
Renting an air powered roofing nailer saves a lot of time and power however, with a compressor and hose included, you can expect to spend a microscopic less than 0 to rent the tools, plus the further cost of the extra nails that fit the tool.

9. With the major construction portion of my warehouse shed project completed it is time to get started with all the finishing touches; painting, attaching gutters to control the rain water run off, and installing cabinets, shelving and all those extra microscopic projects I have plans for.

Now you see it no ifs ands or buts is easy to build a shed full of warehouse solutions, and then make spring cleaning fun, rewarding and end the embarrassing warehouse problems.

Spring Cleaning - storage Solutions End Clutter, Build a storage Shed

Spring cleaning, if you are like me is a welcome convert to the long days of winter. And warehouse solutions are the secrets to ending all the seasonal clutter left from ole man winter. My first woodworking project for the year is going to be build a warehouse shed and solve all my embarrassing warehouse problems. Continue reading this article so you will see just how easy it no ifs ands or buts is.

Why Build a Shed Myself?

Carpentry Framing

1. Because it is rewarding and saves a lot of money too use on upgraded materials and features.

2. Building myself allows me to take my time, build at my own pace sort of speak.

3. Gives me the opening to tweak the shed originate as I remember extra needs I want to take care of. Most importantly I do not want to take part of my wood privacy fence down just to have a institution built shed delivered.

What Will I Need to Build My Shed

1. A set of shed plans I purchased online and downloaded in just a few minutes. They consist of a step by step set of instructions and a list of all the materials I will need for a successful project. Here is a tip for you, avoid the free shed plans, it is the ole bate and switch trick...

2. A good source to provide my materials, none of the cheep knotty twisted up stuff you get with one of the cheaper price kits on the market. With the money I save on somebody else labor construction it, I will buy the top capability materials: doors, windows and roofing shingles.

3. Most of the tools I will need I already have, but agreeing to my wife of 14 years I look for reasons to purchase a new shiny one every opening I get. All jokes aside, basic carpentry tools are all that you will need a claw hammer, speed square, level if you only want one get four footer and a chop saw or miter saw if you prefer. You will also need a combine step or A frame ladders tall adequate to put the roof on.

How to Build a warehouse Shed

1. I Start by ensuring that the location is level and well drained. Believe me, there is nothing worse than your construction standing in the middle of a large puddle of water and you want to get something out of it. Muddy feet aside, setting in water is bad for the building.

2. With the site level and well drained the next step is to build the foundation. For this project I am going to build a transported structure, a shed on skids, in my area this originate does not require a construction permit, which saves me money and the hassles of filling out all the paper work that is, required in the process.

3. I am using treated lumber skids that consist of 4 by 6 timbers 16 feet long as my foundation. I want a big shed, transported yes, but small no, size no ifs ands or buts dose matter. I want and need warehouse space and a work area for all my other woodworking projects I have the plans to build.

4. Once I have the skids in place by following the step by step instructions that are included in my set of construction plans, and specifications, the next step is to attach the floor joists to the skids. For my floor joists I am using 2 by 10 yellow pine boards that are 12 feet long.

5. After all the floor joists are in place the next step is to setup the flooring material. To ensure a sturdy floor that dose not flex under the weight of a heavy item. I use 4 by 8 sheets of plywood, 3/4 inch tongue and groove that locks the sheets together preventing, any up and down movement in the middle of the sheets where they butt together.

6. Upon completion of the floor, the constructions of the walls are next. Build the walls as a unit; laying on the flat exterior of the floor makes it easy to assemble all the wall frame components. The walls consist of a lowest plate, top plate, wall studs and headers for the windows and doors.

7. After the walls are constructed and standing on the floor the roof truss framing is the next step in the process. Refer to your set of plans for the proper angles you will need to cut for your rafters. This is the part of the project where a good miter saw is a time rescue tool that makes cutting the angles for the rafters unbelievably easy.

8. With the rafters built and standing tall, the next step is to attach the roof. I prefer to match the look of my house, so to do that I use the same shingles on the house. First attach the plywood decking to the rafters, followed by a layer of felt paper then the shingles.

Tip;
Renting an air powered roofing nailer saves a lot of time and power however, with a compressor and hose included, you can expect to spend a microscopic less than 0 to rent the tools, plus the further cost of the extra nails that fit the tool.

9. With the major construction portion of my warehouse shed project completed it is time to get started with all the finishing touches; painting, attaching gutters to control the rain water run off, and installing cabinets, shelving and all those extra microscopic projects I have plans for.

Now you see it no ifs ands or buts is easy to build a shed full of warehouse solutions, and then make spring cleaning fun, rewarding and end the embarrassing warehouse problems.

Spring Cleaning - storage Solutions End Clutter, Build a storage Shed

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

An form Of The House building Process

When you are looking for house builders, you need to know what you are dealing with. Therefore, it will be up to you to take the time to learn about distinct builders and how long the construction process will take. If you know what to expect, you will be good able to resolve whether you are working with the right habitancy for the job for your new home construction project. Here is a sample of an outline of the home construction process so that you know what to expect from your house builders.

Contracts and Planning - This is the first and most leading part of the process. This is where you buy the land, finance the materials, and sort out all of the details of the land and home originate that you are looking for. You will get the house plans, tell the builders what you want in your home, recapitulate plans, and approve all things before any construction begins.

Carpentry Framing

Bids and Permits - This is the process where the plans are copies, bids are taken for subcontractors, and permits are attained depending on which permits are required. Some construction fellowships will have an existing set of suppliers who they deal with.

Site Work - After all the details are handled and the permits are done, the builders will begin to clear the lot, stake it for excavation, grade the lot, and excavate to put in the foundation or basement.

Foundation - Next comes to construction of the foundation so that the rest of the house can be built on top. This could be a poured slab foundation, block foundation, or even a basement.

Rough Carpentry - This part of the process includes framing, trusses, installing windows, doors, and other frame pieces. Whatever that is the base of the house, such as decks, roof plywood, and other materials, will be put on at this time.

Hvac, Plumbing, Electric, Specialty Add-ins - All of these elements will be rough installed so that the drywall can be put up and the home can be finished.

Roofing - Once all things is rough-done, the roofing will be installed and outside finishing touches will be added.

Insulation and Drywall - After the roof is on, insulation goes in and drywall goes on top to prepare for painting and finishing.

Finishing - This includes trim work, paint, flooring, Hvac fixtures, plumbing fixtures, electrical fixtures, hardware, and other finishing touches that the home needs to be completed.

This is the basic outline of construction a home. When you hire house builders, you need to make sure these basic steps are being taken into consideration for your home construction project.

An form Of The House building Process

When you are looking for house builders, you need to know what you are dealing with. Therefore, it will be up to you to take the time to learn about distinct builders and how long the construction process will take. If you know what to expect, you will be good able to resolve whether you are working with the right habitancy for the job for your new home construction project. Here is a sample of an outline of the home construction process so that you know what to expect from your house builders.

Contracts and Planning - This is the first and most leading part of the process. This is where you buy the land, finance the materials, and sort out all of the details of the land and home originate that you are looking for. You will get the house plans, tell the builders what you want in your home, recapitulate plans, and approve all things before any construction begins.

Carpentry Framing

Bids and Permits - This is the process where the plans are copies, bids are taken for subcontractors, and permits are attained depending on which permits are required. Some construction fellowships will have an existing set of suppliers who they deal with.

Site Work - After all the details are handled and the permits are done, the builders will begin to clear the lot, stake it for excavation, grade the lot, and excavate to put in the foundation or basement.

Foundation - Next comes to construction of the foundation so that the rest of the house can be built on top. This could be a poured slab foundation, block foundation, or even a basement.

Rough Carpentry - This part of the process includes framing, trusses, installing windows, doors, and other frame pieces. Whatever that is the base of the house, such as decks, roof plywood, and other materials, will be put on at this time.

Hvac, Plumbing, Electric, Specialty Add-ins - All of these elements will be rough installed so that the drywall can be put up and the home can be finished.

Roofing - Once all things is rough-done, the roofing will be installed and outside finishing touches will be added.

Insulation and Drywall - After the roof is on, insulation goes in and drywall goes on top to prepare for painting and finishing.

Finishing - This includes trim work, paint, flooring, Hvac fixtures, plumbing fixtures, electrical fixtures, hardware, and other finishing touches that the home needs to be completed.

This is the basic outline of construction a home. When you hire house builders, you need to make sure these basic steps are being taken into consideration for your home construction project.

An form Of The House building Process

Monday, August 29, 2011

What Pole Barns construction Suppliers Don't Want You to Know

Most pole barn kits apply the uncomplicated building technique of post and beam construction, which anything can do on their own with a puny basic carpentry experience. Don't have the expertise? Then hire a carpenter by the hour to help you plan and build your project. uncomplicated pole building projects can be constructed over a weekend if you have pre-arranged all of your basic building materials and have any friends or family members ready to help you with the heavy lifting. There are 3 basic steps to constructing your own pole barn:

Step 1 - Pole Barns Planning. You'll need to decree how big your pole building will need to be, and then adjust your allembracing measurements slightly to be a many of acceptable building material contribute lengths. This found tip alone will save you hundreds of saw cuts and carpentry time. You'll also need to decree if your pole barn will need concrete slab foundation inside, or if a dirt floor is all you need. If you plan to found your own pole barn we highly advise you spend the to buy a decent pole barn plan - this will save you many headaches and dramatically speed up your building time.

Carpentry Framing

Step 2 - Pole building Supplies. All of the essential supplies for a basic pole barn can be sourced from your local building contribute store. You'll need some concrete mix for the post footings, and more if you decree to pour a concrete floor slab. You'll also need treated posts, your favorite siding material, 2 x 4's, nails, fasteners, and your favorite roofing material. To speed things up you can pre-order roof trusses, or buy gusset fasteners to build your own.

Step 3 - Raising The Barn! Once the concrete has set in the footings you are ready to begin framing the post skeleton of your building plan. This is a very uncomplicated process that is naturally repeated until all the post framing is completed. Once the frame is in place you can attach the outer siding to the frame. From there you can move to the roofing truss installation, roof framing and roof finishing. favorite choices for both siding and roofing are metal because its light, durable, cheap, and won't rot or rust over its lifetime.

There you have it! Within a weekend you can found and raise your very own pole barn. For those of you that might need a puny more direction or help we strongly advise you effect a plan for building pole barns, or even consider ordering a pre-cut pole barn kit.

[ -- description Use course -- You are permitted to freely copy and use this description on your website, Rss, or e-zine Only If the description text is not changed or altered in any way and the hyperlinks inside the description are active and working. Sites found violating this reprint health will be field to legal operation for copyright infringement. When using this description you may remove this legal notice -- ]

What Pole Barns construction Suppliers Don't Want You to Know

Most pole barn kits apply the uncomplicated building technique of post and beam construction, which anything can do on their own with a puny basic carpentry experience. Don't have the expertise? Then hire a carpenter by the hour to help you plan and build your project. uncomplicated pole building projects can be constructed over a weekend if you have pre-arranged all of your basic building materials and have any friends or family members ready to help you with the heavy lifting. There are 3 basic steps to constructing your own pole barn:

Step 1 - Pole Barns Planning. You'll need to decree how big your pole building will need to be, and then adjust your allembracing measurements slightly to be a many of acceptable building material contribute lengths. This found tip alone will save you hundreds of saw cuts and carpentry time. You'll also need to decree if your pole barn will need concrete slab foundation inside, or if a dirt floor is all you need. If you plan to found your own pole barn we highly advise you spend the to buy a decent pole barn plan - this will save you many headaches and dramatically speed up your building time.

Carpentry Framing

Step 2 - Pole building Supplies. All of the essential supplies for a basic pole barn can be sourced from your local building contribute store. You'll need some concrete mix for the post footings, and more if you decree to pour a concrete floor slab. You'll also need treated posts, your favorite siding material, 2 x 4's, nails, fasteners, and your favorite roofing material. To speed things up you can pre-order roof trusses, or buy gusset fasteners to build your own.

Step 3 - Raising The Barn! Once the concrete has set in the footings you are ready to begin framing the post skeleton of your building plan. This is a very uncomplicated process that is naturally repeated until all the post framing is completed. Once the frame is in place you can attach the outer siding to the frame. From there you can move to the roofing truss installation, roof framing and roof finishing. favorite choices for both siding and roofing are metal because its light, durable, cheap, and won't rot or rust over its lifetime.

There you have it! Within a weekend you can found and raise your very own pole barn. For those of you that might need a puny more direction or help we strongly advise you effect a plan for building pole barns, or even consider ordering a pre-cut pole barn kit.

[ -- description Use course -- You are permitted to freely copy and use this description on your website, Rss, or e-zine Only If the description text is not changed or altered in any way and the hyperlinks inside the description are active and working. Sites found violating this reprint health will be field to legal operation for copyright infringement. When using this description you may remove this legal notice -- ]

What Pole Barns construction Suppliers Don't Want You to Know

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Homebuilding: Setting Basement Steel

One of the first steps in the construction of a new home is
setting the steel beams and columns in the basement and/or crawl
space. This supports the floor joists and regularly runs the distance
of the house at mid span in most homes. Not only does this theory
support the floor, but regularly has the weight of bearing walls,
ceilings, second floors, second floor bearing walls and sometimes
roofs transfered down to it.

The first step is to setup the sill plates on the foundation
wall . This gives you a place to nail 2x4 bracing to hold columns and beams in place while you setup them. Once set in place these braces hold the steel till the floor joists are nailed in to take their place.

Carpentry Framing

Before I continue, a word of caution. Homebuilding can be a
dangerous activity. Care and protection are a must in all phases of
the construction process. Setting steel without fail falls into
this category. Beams can weigh everywhere from 100 to 400 pounds
depending on their size and length. Beams can be lifted into
place manually but I would propose the use of a crane. Not only
can the beams be put in place safely, but it can also quicken the
process.

With the sill plates in place the steel can be set. One end of
the first beam typically starts in a beam pocket formed into the
top of the foundation wall. The other end sits on top of a lally
column. A typical column is 3 1/2" in diameter and filled with
concrete. It has a flange welded to the top with holes in it that
match holes in the lowest flange of the beam. The beam is lowered
onto the column and then bolted together.

To make this happen, I like to use four people. One to hold the
beam in the pocket, one to hold the column, one man on a ladder
to guide and bolt the beam onto the column and one man to nail
off bracing to sill plates. Braces (2x4's) are laid flat on the
bottom flange of the beam on both sides of the web and then
nailed to the sill plates on opposing walls.

The next beam is now ready to be set. With one person holding the
next column, the next beam is lowered onto the new column and the
previous column. Men on ladders guide it into place and bolt it
down. Again 2x4's are used to brace the beam to the outside
foundation walls. This policy is repeated until you get to a
beam pocket at the other end of the building, or a column that
terminates at an opening.

To keep beams level and straight, I like to use a dry line from
beam pocket to beam pocket (this can also be done with a laser).
First I drive a nail in the sill plate corresponding with the
edge of the beam. Most beams run pocket to pocket. If this is the
case I'll drive a nail in the plate by that pocket at the same
dimension as the first nail, measured from a coarse reference
point, regularly the front or back sill plate. I now have a
reference point to line up the edge of the beams with and result
in a straight installation.

Assuming the foundation and sill plates are level, this string
can be used to level the steel beams (again, a laser can be
used). After most beam installations a 2x plate is whether bolted
or shot with a powder actuated tool to the top of the beam. This
is to bring it level with the sill plates and to provide nailing
for the floor joists. Using a 2x block as a gauge, lay it on the
top of the beam where it sits on a column. This simulates the
plate that will be installed later. Shim the column till the
block touches the lowest of the dry line. Repeat this for every
column. Columns are shimmed with steel plates of assorted
thicknesses. These shims are provided by the steel supplier.

The next step is to plumb the lally columns on their concrete
pads. Using a 4-foot level, the columns are tapped into plumb
with a sledge hammer. Make sure the steel shims remain under the
columns. After all columns are plumbed up, the concrete floor can
be poured. This holds the columns in place.

The next step is to frame the floor. Once the floor joists are
nailed in place all bracing can be removed. The joists are now
holding the steel in place.

Just like the foundation, setting the steel straight and level is
important to producing a potential home.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Setting Basement Steel

One of the first steps in the construction of a new home is
setting the steel beams and columns in the basement and/or crawl
space. This supports the floor joists and regularly runs the distance
of the house at mid span in most homes. Not only does this theory
support the floor, but regularly has the weight of bearing walls,
ceilings, second floors, second floor bearing walls and sometimes
roofs transfered down to it.

The first step is to setup the sill plates on the foundation
wall . This gives you a place to nail 2x4 bracing to hold columns and beams in place while you setup them. Once set in place these braces hold the steel till the floor joists are nailed in to take their place.

Carpentry Framing

Before I continue, a word of caution. Homebuilding can be a
dangerous activity. Care and protection are a must in all phases of
the construction process. Setting steel without fail falls into
this category. Beams can weigh everywhere from 100 to 400 pounds
depending on their size and length. Beams can be lifted into
place manually but I would propose the use of a crane. Not only
can the beams be put in place safely, but it can also quicken the
process.

With the sill plates in place the steel can be set. One end of
the first beam typically starts in a beam pocket formed into the
top of the foundation wall. The other end sits on top of a lally
column. A typical column is 3 1/2" in diameter and filled with
concrete. It has a flange welded to the top with holes in it that
match holes in the lowest flange of the beam. The beam is lowered
onto the column and then bolted together.

To make this happen, I like to use four people. One to hold the
beam in the pocket, one to hold the column, one man on a ladder
to guide and bolt the beam onto the column and one man to nail
off bracing to sill plates. Braces (2x4's) are laid flat on the
bottom flange of the beam on both sides of the web and then
nailed to the sill plates on opposing walls.

The next beam is now ready to be set. With one person holding the
next column, the next beam is lowered onto the new column and the
previous column. Men on ladders guide it into place and bolt it
down. Again 2x4's are used to brace the beam to the outside
foundation walls. This policy is repeated until you get to a
beam pocket at the other end of the building, or a column that
terminates at an opening.

To keep beams level and straight, I like to use a dry line from
beam pocket to beam pocket (this can also be done with a laser).
First I drive a nail in the sill plate corresponding with the
edge of the beam. Most beams run pocket to pocket. If this is the
case I'll drive a nail in the plate by that pocket at the same
dimension as the first nail, measured from a coarse reference
point, regularly the front or back sill plate. I now have a
reference point to line up the edge of the beams with and result
in a straight installation.

Assuming the foundation and sill plates are level, this string
can be used to level the steel beams (again, a laser can be
used). After most beam installations a 2x plate is whether bolted
or shot with a powder actuated tool to the top of the beam. This
is to bring it level with the sill plates and to provide nailing
for the floor joists. Using a 2x block as a gauge, lay it on the
top of the beam where it sits on a column. This simulates the
plate that will be installed later. Shim the column till the
block touches the lowest of the dry line. Repeat this for every
column. Columns are shimmed with steel plates of assorted
thicknesses. These shims are provided by the steel supplier.

The next step is to plumb the lally columns on their concrete
pads. Using a 4-foot level, the columns are tapped into plumb
with a sledge hammer. Make sure the steel shims remain under the
columns. After all columns are plumbed up, the concrete floor can
be poured. This holds the columns in place.

The next step is to frame the floor. Once the floor joists are
nailed in place all bracing can be removed. The joists are now
holding the steel in place.

Just like the foundation, setting the steel straight and level is
important to producing a potential home.

(c) Mike Merisko www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Setting Basement Steel

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Prefabricated Shower Stalls - Tips For Installing

Installing a prefabricated shower stall often turns out to be a tricky and time-consuming job that takes great practical skill, yet with sensible pre-planning and the right tools for the job, a expert consequent can be obtained by the mean home-handyman. Allow 3-4 days to complete the work and brush up on your carpentry, plumbing, wall-preparation and finishing skills because you're going to need them all!

To begin with, make sure you have the right equipment and tools before you begin the job. Importantly, buy the shower stall before building the frame it will fit in in order to get correct dimensions.

Carpentry Framing

You will need: a prefabricated shower, galvanic drill, plumb level, tape measure, caulk, screws, hole saw, shower/tub adhesive, tape, pencil, leather work gloves, hammer, work boots and an adjustable wrench. Protective eye-wear is also highly advisable (wear when using power tools.)

Getting the prefab shower into position can be the tricky part. You will need to fit it straight through an existing doorway or an covering window. In some instances, part of an covering wall may have to be removed in order to get the unit inside; seek expert advice first if required.

Because prefabricated shower stalls have watertight walls, cement-based backer boards are not needed.

It is advisable to install insulation in the middle of the studs in order to cut plumbing noise.

When drilling holes in the unit's walls to fit the faucet and shower arm, quantum carefully in progress and all the time wear protective eye-wear when drilling.

Position parts carefully and attach the unit to the framing. The drain piece, shower handle, escutcheon, and shower-head all need to be fitted correctly to preclude leakages and hereafter problems. All seams need to be caulked efficiently and a acceptable checking of any leaks needs specific attention; later corrections to any plumbing faults can be difficult to carry out.

Finally, discontinue the walls and fit a shower door or curtain bar. It is vital that you seal the joints in the middle of the bathroom walls and floor and shower enclosure with a good capability silicone! Installing water-resistant drywall colse to the top edge of the shower stall can be a wise, long-term investment; tiling the top edge is also a great idea as it will likely last a lot longer than wallpaper or paintwork.

If you aren't adept in skills like demolition, plumbing and drywalling, you may be best served by employing a noteworthy expert to carry out these tasks.

As a final reminder, installing prefabricated shower stalls can be quite fiddly and time-consuming. The plumbing especially has to be completed with some expertise in order to have a sound unit. Yet having said all this, a victorious shower premise is achievable if you take your time, check well for any leaks and consult an specialist for advice if the need arises.

Good luck!

Prefabricated Shower Stalls - Tips For Installing

Installing a prefabricated shower stall often turns out to be a tricky and time-consuming job that takes great practical skill, yet with sensible pre-planning and the right tools for the job, a expert consequent can be obtained by the mean home-handyman. Allow 3-4 days to complete the work and brush up on your carpentry, plumbing, wall-preparation and finishing skills because you're going to need them all!

To begin with, make sure you have the right equipment and tools before you begin the job. Importantly, buy the shower stall before building the frame it will fit in in order to get correct dimensions.

Carpentry Framing

You will need: a prefabricated shower, galvanic drill, plumb level, tape measure, caulk, screws, hole saw, shower/tub adhesive, tape, pencil, leather work gloves, hammer, work boots and an adjustable wrench. Protective eye-wear is also highly advisable (wear when using power tools.)

Getting the prefab shower into position can be the tricky part. You will need to fit it straight through an existing doorway or an covering window. In some instances, part of an covering wall may have to be removed in order to get the unit inside; seek expert advice first if required.

Because prefabricated shower stalls have watertight walls, cement-based backer boards are not needed.

It is advisable to install insulation in the middle of the studs in order to cut plumbing noise.

When drilling holes in the unit's walls to fit the faucet and shower arm, quantum carefully in progress and all the time wear protective eye-wear when drilling.

Position parts carefully and attach the unit to the framing. The drain piece, shower handle, escutcheon, and shower-head all need to be fitted correctly to preclude leakages and hereafter problems. All seams need to be caulked efficiently and a acceptable checking of any leaks needs specific attention; later corrections to any plumbing faults can be difficult to carry out.

Finally, discontinue the walls and fit a shower door or curtain bar. It is vital that you seal the joints in the middle of the bathroom walls and floor and shower enclosure with a good capability silicone! Installing water-resistant drywall colse to the top edge of the shower stall can be a wise, long-term investment; tiling the top edge is also a great idea as it will likely last a lot longer than wallpaper or paintwork.

If you aren't adept in skills like demolition, plumbing and drywalling, you may be best served by employing a noteworthy expert to carry out these tasks.

As a final reminder, installing prefabricated shower stalls can be quite fiddly and time-consuming. The plumbing especially has to be completed with some expertise in order to have a sound unit. Yet having said all this, a victorious shower premise is achievable if you take your time, check well for any leaks and consult an specialist for advice if the need arises.

Good luck!

Prefabricated Shower Stalls - Tips For Installing

Friday, August 26, 2011

building Concrete Forms, Tips and Techniques in Carpentry

Here you will find normal information, strategies, and techniques when building concrete forms in carpentry. Concrete forms are built to hold wet concrete. Once the form is built the wet concrete gets poured in the form, this is commonly done by a truck, wheel borrow, or shovel.

When the concrete dries the form is then stripped. After the form is stripped you will have your conclude product. This recipe is used commonly when building bridges, curves, and foundation of buildings, pillar, steps, and walls. Majority of this work is done exterior in extreme weather conditions.

Carpentry Framing

Doing this work is very exciting. Sometimes carpenters are working in the middle of highways as cars are passing by at high speeds. Or they may be required to walk over a plank carrying a sheet of plywood on a windy day and one wrong move and they fall into a lake. Now that's exciting. Carpenters get dirty as well, having to work in the mud and rain swinging a hammer trying to put nails in wood or using a sledge hammer trying to sink a four foot steak in muddy ground. This is the hardcore part of carpentry building concrete forms.

_Before building the concrete form all material such as plywood and two by fours should be inspected for cracks and serious flaws. Using messed up material will give you weak parts in your form and ensue to a blow out meaning wet concrete pours or blows out the form which means you failed to do the job right. A carpenter's main objective is to not have blowouts plain and simple.

_While building remember to build accordingly to what your customer wants

_Always brace and reserve your forms correctly.
There are no short cuts.

_Its better to overbuild than it is to under build. Overbuilding assures you that there will not be any blow out.

_Using the right nails for the job is very important. Using the wrong size nails can ensue to a blow out. Also use enough nails.

_All steaks metal or wood should be nailed in the ground until they are at least 3 feet in.

_When swinging your hammer remember it's all in the wrist let your wrist do the swinging

_After you are done building the form look over your work make sure you did not forget anything.

building Concrete Forms, Tips and Techniques in Carpentry

Here you will find normal information, strategies, and techniques when building concrete forms in carpentry. Concrete forms are built to hold wet concrete. Once the form is built the wet concrete gets poured in the form, this is commonly done by a truck, wheel borrow, or shovel.

When the concrete dries the form is then stripped. After the form is stripped you will have your conclude product. This recipe is used commonly when building bridges, curves, and foundation of buildings, pillar, steps, and walls. Majority of this work is done exterior in extreme weather conditions.

Carpentry Framing

Doing this work is very exciting. Sometimes carpenters are working in the middle of highways as cars are passing by at high speeds. Or they may be required to walk over a plank carrying a sheet of plywood on a windy day and one wrong move and they fall into a lake. Now that's exciting. Carpenters get dirty as well, having to work in the mud and rain swinging a hammer trying to put nails in wood or using a sledge hammer trying to sink a four foot steak in muddy ground. This is the hardcore part of carpentry building concrete forms.

_Before building the concrete form all material such as plywood and two by fours should be inspected for cracks and serious flaws. Using messed up material will give you weak parts in your form and ensue to a blow out meaning wet concrete pours or blows out the form which means you failed to do the job right. A carpenter's main objective is to not have blowouts plain and simple.

_While building remember to build accordingly to what your customer wants

_Always brace and reserve your forms correctly.
There are no short cuts.

_Its better to overbuild than it is to under build. Overbuilding assures you that there will not be any blow out.

_Using the right nails for the job is very important. Using the wrong size nails can ensue to a blow out. Also use enough nails.

_All steaks metal or wood should be nailed in the ground until they are at least 3 feet in.

_When swinging your hammer remember it's all in the wrist let your wrist do the swinging

_After you are done building the form look over your work make sure you did not forget anything.

building Concrete Forms, Tips and Techniques in Carpentry

Thursday, August 25, 2011

construction a Concrete Driveway: Diy Tips for the allocation known Homeowner

Building a concrete driveway is one of those rare options that can satisfy most people's practical and aesthetic concerns. Concrete driveways are not only built to last long but are enchanting to the eye at the same time. Granted, they may take a bit of time to build properly, because none of your efforts will feel wasted once you view your final product.

What Not to Forget When building a Concrete Driveway

Carpentry Framing

Building Codes in Your Area - It's possible, especially if you're living in the suburbs, or belong to a inescapable community, that driveway specifications may be subjected to inescapable society rules. Your village, for instance, may prefer for all houses to have similar finding driveways, regardless of the material used. Or, it's the option of material that's subjected to inescapable restrictions. To avoid wasting time and money, do your homework and see if building a concrete driveway will supervene to any violation.

Put Your Plans in Paper - Before getting your still-unused carpentry and building tools and donning your Diy uniform, it's best to put your plans on paper and try sketching the dimensions of your proposed concrete driveway. Make sure that you scale your drawing properly to gain exact results, and most especially if you've decided not to hire an master to help you out.

If you don't know how to draw, please please please ask man to do it for you. Don't be stubborn like other homeowners who insist on doing everything themselves, never mind the consequences.

Submit the valuable Requirements - Once you've become satisfied with the projected appearance of your concrete driveway, make time to submit the valuable requirements in order for the housing committee in your area to grant approval for your concrete driveway plans. It's possible that they'll be involved with how your neighbors would feel once the noise of building reaches their ears; to avoid any time to come altercations with your neighbors, make sure that you politely and nicely apprise them of your plans. Gaining written permission from them won't hurt either!

Going Shopping - With the legal stuff done, the next thing to do is what women love to do best: going shopping! If any woman in your household is a genuine shopaholic, she wouldn't mind together with you in your buying quest, even if it's just a trip to the local hardware store.

To save on time and money, make a list of the things you have to buy, compare goods reviews, and see what brands are of first-rate quality but affordable at the same time. As for tools and other equipment, reconsider either buying them second hand, renting, or borrowing from your neighbors or friends.

Excavation and Base preparation - The pre-construction stage is over, and it's now time to do backbreaking stuff. First in the list is excavation and base preparation. Like most structures, excavating and preparation a base is required to give your concrete driveway a solid foundation. It's best to take your time when doing this because one limited mistake associated to the foundation can cause the whole thing to collapse.

Building the Driveway - Once you've terminated with the foundation, it's now time to build the skeletal part of the driveway itself. All the time consult your handmade blueprint while building the driveway to ensure that you've done everything correctly and agreeing to the measurements you've specified.

Sealing it with a Concrete Kiss - Once you're done with the frame, it's now time to apply the concrete and wait for it to harden.

Finishing Touches - Backfill and provide enhancements for the landscape.

Pros and Cons of Using a Concrete Driveway
Benefits - Concrete driveways can be decorated in assorted ways, manufacture it more easy to use as a complement to the house itself. It is also easier to clean during winter. Concrete driveways can also be sealed right after installation.
Cons - Concrete driveways, however, are more expensive than asphalt driveways and need a higher degree of care and maintenance. Lastly, concrete driveways cannot be relayered.

Choosing to build a concrete driveway is a good decision to make in most cases, but of course, it's what the homeowner feels that counts the most. Just remember that when manufacture a driveway, All the time pick a material that won't crack under the weight of a ten-wheeler truck but improve the appearance of your house as well!

construction a Concrete Driveway: Diy Tips for the allocation known Homeowner

Building a concrete driveway is one of those rare options that can satisfy most people's practical and aesthetic concerns. Concrete driveways are not only built to last long but are enchanting to the eye at the same time. Granted, they may take a bit of time to build properly, because none of your efforts will feel wasted once you view your final product.

What Not to Forget When building a Concrete Driveway

Carpentry Framing

Building Codes in Your Area - It's possible, especially if you're living in the suburbs, or belong to a inescapable community, that driveway specifications may be subjected to inescapable society rules. Your village, for instance, may prefer for all houses to have similar finding driveways, regardless of the material used. Or, it's the option of material that's subjected to inescapable restrictions. To avoid wasting time and money, do your homework and see if building a concrete driveway will supervene to any violation.

Put Your Plans in Paper - Before getting your still-unused carpentry and building tools and donning your Diy uniform, it's best to put your plans on paper and try sketching the dimensions of your proposed concrete driveway. Make sure that you scale your drawing properly to gain exact results, and most especially if you've decided not to hire an master to help you out.

If you don't know how to draw, please please please ask man to do it for you. Don't be stubborn like other homeowners who insist on doing everything themselves, never mind the consequences.

Submit the valuable Requirements - Once you've become satisfied with the projected appearance of your concrete driveway, make time to submit the valuable requirements in order for the housing committee in your area to grant approval for your concrete driveway plans. It's possible that they'll be involved with how your neighbors would feel once the noise of building reaches their ears; to avoid any time to come altercations with your neighbors, make sure that you politely and nicely apprise them of your plans. Gaining written permission from them won't hurt either!

Going Shopping - With the legal stuff done, the next thing to do is what women love to do best: going shopping! If any woman in your household is a genuine shopaholic, she wouldn't mind together with you in your buying quest, even if it's just a trip to the local hardware store.

To save on time and money, make a list of the things you have to buy, compare goods reviews, and see what brands are of first-rate quality but affordable at the same time. As for tools and other equipment, reconsider either buying them second hand, renting, or borrowing from your neighbors or friends.

Excavation and Base preparation - The pre-construction stage is over, and it's now time to do backbreaking stuff. First in the list is excavation and base preparation. Like most structures, excavating and preparation a base is required to give your concrete driveway a solid foundation. It's best to take your time when doing this because one limited mistake associated to the foundation can cause the whole thing to collapse.

Building the Driveway - Once you've terminated with the foundation, it's now time to build the skeletal part of the driveway itself. All the time consult your handmade blueprint while building the driveway to ensure that you've done everything correctly and agreeing to the measurements you've specified.

Sealing it with a Concrete Kiss - Once you're done with the frame, it's now time to apply the concrete and wait for it to harden.

Finishing Touches - Backfill and provide enhancements for the landscape.

Pros and Cons of Using a Concrete Driveway
Benefits - Concrete driveways can be decorated in assorted ways, manufacture it more easy to use as a complement to the house itself. It is also easier to clean during winter. Concrete driveways can also be sealed right after installation.
Cons - Concrete driveways, however, are more expensive than asphalt driveways and need a higher degree of care and maintenance. Lastly, concrete driveways cannot be relayered.

Choosing to build a concrete driveway is a good decision to make in most cases, but of course, it's what the homeowner feels that counts the most. Just remember that when manufacture a driveway, All the time pick a material that won't crack under the weight of a ten-wheeler truck but improve the appearance of your house as well!

construction a Concrete Driveway: Diy Tips for the allocation known Homeowner

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

building Your Own Home

Most citizen think construction their own home involves vast knowledge of all aspects of the home construction process. The impression of most citizen is they don't beyond doubt know sufficient to build their own home. Let's face it, most of us know a minuscule about the process. Some of us may know a lot about one aspect or the other complicated in construction a home. You may know how to paint or do carpentry work or lay tile, but you probably don't know everything about home building.

What is so dissimilar about construction a home than the rest of major tasks that we take on in our everyday lives? Right now I am typing on my laptop over a wireless connection that is networked to the Internet. Do I know how all this works? Nope, I just knew how to put it all together and eureka, I can do it! Well we all know it is not that simple sometimes with computers, but my point is you don't need to know everything about something to do it.

Carpentry Framing

In this age of the Internet with it's endless sources of facts and connection to other citizen that have the knowledge you need, approximately anything is possible. So why is construction your own home any different? It isn't really, let me tell you why. First a minuscule background about the construction process.

Most of us buy a home that is built by a builder, or normal contractor. The normal Contractors hire Sub-Contractors to do the work, or essentially build the homes. The Subs put up the framing, roofing, siding, flooring etc... Usually the normal contractors employ construction supervisors to watch over the construction process. They are the managers that have day-to-day taste with the subs. This process is not beyond doubt complicated.

So what is so mysterious about construction your own home? What do the builders have way to that you don't? Nothing, this is the fact that not to many citizen know. I built my own home. Am I some kind of rocket scientist, not hardly? The fact is you can save thousands of dollars and have the home of your dreams. We saved 40% and have a gorgeous home that is exactly what we wanted.

You have way to the construction Contractors, House Plans, land, materials and financing. You just don't know it! You see the normal Contractors just put it all together and present it to the masses, at a hefty markup of course!

Building your own home is very similar to all the other prominent tasks that you have mastered in your life. You study the facts effect a process and commit to the task. Is it easy no, is it worth it, yes.

For more facts about construction Your Own Home visit http://www.build-yourown-home.com/

building Your Own Home

Most citizen think construction their own home involves vast knowledge of all aspects of the home construction process. The impression of most citizen is they don't beyond doubt know sufficient to build their own home. Let's face it, most of us know a minuscule about the process. Some of us may know a lot about one aspect or the other complicated in construction a home. You may know how to paint or do carpentry work or lay tile, but you probably don't know everything about home building.

What is so dissimilar about construction a home than the rest of major tasks that we take on in our everyday lives? Right now I am typing on my laptop over a wireless connection that is networked to the Internet. Do I know how all this works? Nope, I just knew how to put it all together and eureka, I can do it! Well we all know it is not that simple sometimes with computers, but my point is you don't need to know everything about something to do it.

Carpentry Framing

In this age of the Internet with it's endless sources of facts and connection to other citizen that have the knowledge you need, approximately anything is possible. So why is construction your own home any different? It isn't really, let me tell you why. First a minuscule background about the construction process.

Most of us buy a home that is built by a builder, or normal contractor. The normal Contractors hire Sub-Contractors to do the work, or essentially build the homes. The Subs put up the framing, roofing, siding, flooring etc... Usually the normal contractors employ construction supervisors to watch over the construction process. They are the managers that have day-to-day taste with the subs. This process is not beyond doubt complicated.

So what is so mysterious about construction your own home? What do the builders have way to that you don't? Nothing, this is the fact that not to many citizen know. I built my own home. Am I some kind of rocket scientist, not hardly? The fact is you can save thousands of dollars and have the home of your dreams. We saved 40% and have a gorgeous home that is exactly what we wanted.

You have way to the construction Contractors, House Plans, land, materials and financing. You just don't know it! You see the normal Contractors just put it all together and present it to the masses, at a hefty markup of course!

Building your own home is very similar to all the other prominent tasks that you have mastered in your life. You study the facts effect a process and commit to the task. Is it easy no, is it worth it, yes.

For more facts about construction Your Own Home visit http://www.build-yourown-home.com/

building Your Own Home

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Installing Ceramic Tile Yourself - Is It Possible?

Installing ceramic tile yourself will save you money and keep strangers out of your house! You learn a new skill by doing it yourself too. Ceramic tile factory projects are tackled successfully by many home owners every year. No doubt there is an art to laying tile, but a handy someone who has abundance of time can unquestionably learn to lay tile. Just like many home revising projects, pros make money by doing work fast. If you aren't in a big hurry, your potential of work can be just as good as a professional...maybe better. So what are the main steps for a tile job?

Layout and Estimating

Carpentry Framing

What kind of factory is this? Will there be some plumbing or carpentry required? Plan for the completion of those tasks. quantum the area to be covered so you know how much tile you need. Allow for trim and breakage. After you know your area, you can best shop for tile. If you have a budget, knowing the area of tile to be covered lets you speculate your cost as you shop for tile. Do you need any trim pieces? Often edges, like ceramic tile counter tops, are trimmed with hardwood. Bathroom ceramic tile might include towel racks or soap dishes.

Ceramic Tile factory Tools

Hand tools for installing ceramic tile include trowels, cutters and measuring instruments. Trowels needed vary with the jobs. A basic trowel is the rectangular notched trowel. This tool is used to spread the adhesive. The trowel notches let the installer gauge the thickness of the adhesive. A smaller margin trowel is for information work. Tile cutting is a critical function. The basic cutter is a nipper, which is especially used for information work. A cutter board is often used for right cuts, The cutter board scores tile to make it easy to break. A circular wet saw is the real workhorse of a professional. Saws come in all separate grades and sizes. You can find an cheap saw that will be right for your job.

Adhesive

Tile is stuck to the floor using an adhesive. The material is either ready mixed or a wettable powder. Your provider can advise a grade for your project. Many adhesives are latex based and some are even stain proof and water proof epoxy. Epoxy grout is especially good for shower pans or bathroom ceramic tile.

Laying the Tile

Tile is always laid over a carport base that will not shift much. Often cement board is put down as a base, since cement board is water defiant and stable. Once the base is installed you can put down lines to help align the tile. Of course, no room is perfectly square, so allow for misalignment as you start your job. search the pieces that must be cut in the least visible areas. Sometimes, beginning at one wall or one side will look best. Sometimes beginning in the middle of a outside will be better. That's where the art of laying tile enters.

The alignment of the tile edges determines how the accomplished job looks. Beware that allowance tiles often vary in size more than superior material, production alignment tougher. Use a chalk line to give you as many guide lines as you need. Then you can space the tiles by eye or use regular plastic spacers in the middle of pieces to help you.

Grout

After the tile is in place including all the trim, you fill the spaces with a masonry grout. Grout for larger spacing includes sand. The sand makes the grout stronger and less likely to crack. Grout comes in colors too. Grout is installed and spread with a extra rubber faced trowel. After the grout is installed, you take off it from the tile faces before it wholly dries.

Installing Ceramic Tile Yourself - Is It Possible?

Installing ceramic tile yourself will save you money and keep strangers out of your house! You learn a new skill by doing it yourself too. Ceramic tile factory projects are tackled successfully by many home owners every year. No doubt there is an art to laying tile, but a handy someone who has abundance of time can unquestionably learn to lay tile. Just like many home revising projects, pros make money by doing work fast. If you aren't in a big hurry, your potential of work can be just as good as a professional...maybe better. So what are the main steps for a tile job?

Layout and Estimating

Carpentry Framing

What kind of factory is this? Will there be some plumbing or carpentry required? Plan for the completion of those tasks. quantum the area to be covered so you know how much tile you need. Allow for trim and breakage. After you know your area, you can best shop for tile. If you have a budget, knowing the area of tile to be covered lets you speculate your cost as you shop for tile. Do you need any trim pieces? Often edges, like ceramic tile counter tops, are trimmed with hardwood. Bathroom ceramic tile might include towel racks or soap dishes.

Ceramic Tile factory Tools

Hand tools for installing ceramic tile include trowels, cutters and measuring instruments. Trowels needed vary with the jobs. A basic trowel is the rectangular notched trowel. This tool is used to spread the adhesive. The trowel notches let the installer gauge the thickness of the adhesive. A smaller margin trowel is for information work. Tile cutting is a critical function. The basic cutter is a nipper, which is especially used for information work. A cutter board is often used for right cuts, The cutter board scores tile to make it easy to break. A circular wet saw is the real workhorse of a professional. Saws come in all separate grades and sizes. You can find an cheap saw that will be right for your job.

Adhesive

Tile is stuck to the floor using an adhesive. The material is either ready mixed or a wettable powder. Your provider can advise a grade for your project. Many adhesives are latex based and some are even stain proof and water proof epoxy. Epoxy grout is especially good for shower pans or bathroom ceramic tile.

Laying the Tile

Tile is always laid over a carport base that will not shift much. Often cement board is put down as a base, since cement board is water defiant and stable. Once the base is installed you can put down lines to help align the tile. Of course, no room is perfectly square, so allow for misalignment as you start your job. search the pieces that must be cut in the least visible areas. Sometimes, beginning at one wall or one side will look best. Sometimes beginning in the middle of a outside will be better. That's where the art of laying tile enters.

The alignment of the tile edges determines how the accomplished job looks. Beware that allowance tiles often vary in size more than superior material, production alignment tougher. Use a chalk line to give you as many guide lines as you need. Then you can space the tiles by eye or use regular plastic spacers in the middle of pieces to help you.

Grout

After the tile is in place including all the trim, you fill the spaces with a masonry grout. Grout for larger spacing includes sand. The sand makes the grout stronger and less likely to crack. Grout comes in colors too. Grout is installed and spread with a extra rubber faced trowel. After the grout is installed, you take off it from the tile faces before it wholly dries.

Installing Ceramic Tile Yourself - Is It Possible?

Monday, August 22, 2011

Ramped Up Diy - Build Your Own Skateboard Ramp

Practice your skateboarding skills in the anonymity of your own backyard with a homemade ramp till you feel certain enough to go outside.

A skateboard ramp of your own means that you won't have to jostle for a place at a skate park anymore, and your parents will probably be glad for the money that saves them. Not that they'll be pleased to have a pack of teenagers practicing stunts in their backyard, but it's better than taking to the streets, right?

Carpentry Framing

You don't need to have years of carpentry or woodworking caress to know how to build a ramp, but it'd be good to have some ready, willing and able friends to help you.

It's best to buy new, weather-treated wood that can withstand the vagaries of sun, wind and rain without breaking down. Don't even think of salvaging wood from discarded furniture because that lumber wasn't made for skateboarding. You will need thick plywood in the following dimensions: 2' x 4' and 0.5 inches thick, 3' x 2' and 0.25 inches thick as well as 3 pieces of framing timber measuring 2" x 1.5" x 23".

Saw the 2' x 4' into 2 triangles, sectioning the former piece diagonally. You will have 2 right-angled triangles of equal size. Resize them so that they are 3 feet long and 1 foot high. These will form the frame of your ramp.

Next, plane one of the pieces of framing timber so that one of its sides is at the same angle as the top edge of your frames. Make sure all the edges are flush before screwing the framing timber to the frame. Do the same with the second piece of timber, but at the bottom of the frame before attaching the last piece midway down the hypotenuse of the frame.

Cut a piece from the remaining plywood section 10 inches wide and 23 inches long. Shape one end of this piece so that it is at the same angle as the sharp end of the frame. Glue it to the frame with wood glue and hold it in place with nails while it dries. Screw the piece to the framing timbers for a more permanent fixture after the glue has dried. Do not fasten screws into the plywood as this can cause it to split. Paint or stain your terminated masterpiece if you feel up to it. Now you have become an expert in development a skateboard ramp.

Ramped Up Diy - Build Your Own Skateboard Ramp

Practice your skateboarding skills in the anonymity of your own backyard with a homemade ramp till you feel certain enough to go outside.

A skateboard ramp of your own means that you won't have to jostle for a place at a skate park anymore, and your parents will probably be glad for the money that saves them. Not that they'll be pleased to have a pack of teenagers practicing stunts in their backyard, but it's better than taking to the streets, right?

Carpentry Framing

You don't need to have years of carpentry or woodworking caress to know how to build a ramp, but it'd be good to have some ready, willing and able friends to help you.

It's best to buy new, weather-treated wood that can withstand the vagaries of sun, wind and rain without breaking down. Don't even think of salvaging wood from discarded furniture because that lumber wasn't made for skateboarding. You will need thick plywood in the following dimensions: 2' x 4' and 0.5 inches thick, 3' x 2' and 0.25 inches thick as well as 3 pieces of framing timber measuring 2" x 1.5" x 23".

Saw the 2' x 4' into 2 triangles, sectioning the former piece diagonally. You will have 2 right-angled triangles of equal size. Resize them so that they are 3 feet long and 1 foot high. These will form the frame of your ramp.

Next, plane one of the pieces of framing timber so that one of its sides is at the same angle as the top edge of your frames. Make sure all the edges are flush before screwing the framing timber to the frame. Do the same with the second piece of timber, but at the bottom of the frame before attaching the last piece midway down the hypotenuse of the frame.

Cut a piece from the remaining plywood section 10 inches wide and 23 inches long. Shape one end of this piece so that it is at the same angle as the sharp end of the frame. Glue it to the frame with wood glue and hold it in place with nails while it dries. Screw the piece to the framing timbers for a more permanent fixture after the glue has dried. Do not fasten screws into the plywood as this can cause it to split. Paint or stain your terminated masterpiece if you feel up to it. Now you have become an expert in development a skateboard ramp.

Ramped Up Diy - Build Your Own Skateboard Ramp

Sunday, August 21, 2011

construction Your Own Wood carport

When inspecting the increasing of a garage to your property, you can select from one of the many garage kits that are available today, or, if you have some knowledge of carpentry, you can build one by utilizing one of the many garage plans that you can indeed find and purchase online. Most garage plan websites will email you the plans so you can begin your project immediately.

Very few car owners have found a way to wholly safe a car from damage but most of the time the damage occurs when the car is parked either on a street or even on your property. As a matter of fact, the worse kind of damage comes from the sun itself. The sun's strong rays can fade the paint on the outside of your vehicle and cause the interior surfaces to dry out and crack. Exposure to rain, wind, and snow is harmful as well. The least predictable way a car parked on the street may preserve damage is from an arrant child's toy or even an additional one vehicle.

Carpentry Framing

The easiest and least high-priced way to remedy your lack of garage or car shelter is by deciding to build a carport, either attached to your home or as a freestanding buildings somewhere on your property away from the street. Carports are also a great way to add value to your property because to a possible home buyer, a garage may be considered storage space or even a sheltered outdoor living space. The most protective type of garage is a fully enclosed buildings with locking doors. Locking the doors is preventive of burglars or vandals if that is a qoute in the area in which you live.

Building a wooden garage with the aid of a plan is the most prudent way to go. You can save even more money by devising your own plan. Remember that any garage originate ideas you have must conform to the construction codes in your area, and fit within the space you have available. You also need to be aware going in that the construction will take some time, and you need to collect all the needed materials yourself.

Carport designs vary mostly in terms of either they consist of storage, and the roof structure, since the walls are normally some simple posts. If you live in an area with heavy snowfall, you want a sloping roof so the snow will slide off easily. If the added value to your home is an prominent consideration, a roof with gables makes the garage look more upscale and aesthetically pleasing. You can indeed get more garage ideas by seeing at pictures of carports online.

construction Your Own Wood carport

When inspecting the increasing of a garage to your property, you can select from one of the many garage kits that are available today, or, if you have some knowledge of carpentry, you can build one by utilizing one of the many garage plans that you can indeed find and purchase online. Most garage plan websites will email you the plans so you can begin your project immediately.

Very few car owners have found a way to wholly safe a car from damage but most of the time the damage occurs when the car is parked either on a street or even on your property. As a matter of fact, the worse kind of damage comes from the sun itself. The sun's strong rays can fade the paint on the outside of your vehicle and cause the interior surfaces to dry out and crack. Exposure to rain, wind, and snow is harmful as well. The least predictable way a car parked on the street may preserve damage is from an arrant child's toy or even an additional one vehicle.

Carpentry Framing

The easiest and least high-priced way to remedy your lack of garage or car shelter is by deciding to build a carport, either attached to your home or as a freestanding buildings somewhere on your property away from the street. Carports are also a great way to add value to your property because to a possible home buyer, a garage may be considered storage space or even a sheltered outdoor living space. The most protective type of garage is a fully enclosed buildings with locking doors. Locking the doors is preventive of burglars or vandals if that is a qoute in the area in which you live.

Building a wooden garage with the aid of a plan is the most prudent way to go. You can save even more money by devising your own plan. Remember that any garage originate ideas you have must conform to the construction codes in your area, and fit within the space you have available. You also need to be aware going in that the construction will take some time, and you need to collect all the needed materials yourself.

Carport designs vary mostly in terms of either they consist of storage, and the roof structure, since the walls are normally some simple posts. If you live in an area with heavy snowfall, you want a sloping roof so the snow will slide off easily. If the added value to your home is an prominent consideration, a roof with gables makes the garage look more upscale and aesthetically pleasing. You can indeed get more garage ideas by seeing at pictures of carports online.

construction Your Own Wood carport

Saturday, August 20, 2011

How to Make Your Decks and Patios Look Great

Your patio or deck has served you well by being a marvelous space so you can host memorable parties and dinners. When either of these spaces is maintained at its best state, it could massively growth your property value. And since you have manifold benefits from such outdoor living area, it is but right that you give it permissible care at all times. There are so many ways how you can keep your patio or deck looking its best.

Patios and decks are more susceptible to acquiring damages compared with other parts of your home. Their exposure to the surface environment and unpredictable weather changes can authentically make them deteriorate. Thus, it is valuable that you vocalize a quarterly program of patio or deck maintenance so you can maximize using it.

Carpentry Framing

Cleaning would all the time be the easiest and cheapest trick you can do to keep any space well-maintained. Ordinarily sweep and dust the whole area. Give accepted care to the flooring material of your patio or deck. Wax wooden floors or wash and scrub grime off a tiled floor. If there are metal furnishings or fixtures, polish them as well.

Further care for your flooring is to replace loose panels or broken tiles. Other possible care tips include staining, repainting and varnishing. And if you have uncovered space, supplementary security for the floors is needed. What you can do is to apply a coat of waterproof sealant. You should also have a waterproof material that can cover the whole floor area.

All furniture pieces and fixtures must also be well cared for. Fireplaces, fire pits or grills should be spotless even when they are not used on a daily basis. If dust accumulates in these materials, they would be difficult to operate. Never leave ashes piled up and all the time clean up the soot. Buy waterproof covers for the grill and fire pit. Place the grill or fire pit when not in use in an area where even the harshest winds could not knock it over.

You should also hire steps to shield your whole patio or deck against constant and direct exposure to sunlight. Uv rays are not only harmful to human skin, but they can also cause colors in surfaces to fade. One explication is to have a shade, which can also block the rain. This can be in many forms. There are ready-to-use canopies you can Buy from home depots. You can also have a customized shade buildings built. If you have basic carpentry skills and some help, you will have a breeze doing this project. Seek shade building, framing and installation guides from online sources. Otherwise, you can all the time get pro installation services.

Augment the shade from the above said materials by planting trees and tall shrubs. There are grown trees you can buy from your local orchad shops or nurseries. In addition, there are other benefits from plants. Through them, your deck or patio would look more refreshing and beautiful. The air circulation in and out of your home would also be improved. And if you have many trees planted, your outdoor living space has more privacy.

How to Make Your Decks and Patios Look Great

Your patio or deck has served you well by being a marvelous space so you can host memorable parties and dinners. When either of these spaces is maintained at its best state, it could massively growth your property value. And since you have manifold benefits from such outdoor living area, it is but right that you give it permissible care at all times. There are so many ways how you can keep your patio or deck looking its best.

Patios and decks are more susceptible to acquiring damages compared with other parts of your home. Their exposure to the surface environment and unpredictable weather changes can authentically make them deteriorate. Thus, it is valuable that you vocalize a quarterly program of patio or deck maintenance so you can maximize using it.

Carpentry Framing

Cleaning would all the time be the easiest and cheapest trick you can do to keep any space well-maintained. Ordinarily sweep and dust the whole area. Give accepted care to the flooring material of your patio or deck. Wax wooden floors or wash and scrub grime off a tiled floor. If there are metal furnishings or fixtures, polish them as well.

Further care for your flooring is to replace loose panels or broken tiles. Other possible care tips include staining, repainting and varnishing. And if you have uncovered space, supplementary security for the floors is needed. What you can do is to apply a coat of waterproof sealant. You should also have a waterproof material that can cover the whole floor area.

All furniture pieces and fixtures must also be well cared for. Fireplaces, fire pits or grills should be spotless even when they are not used on a daily basis. If dust accumulates in these materials, they would be difficult to operate. Never leave ashes piled up and all the time clean up the soot. Buy waterproof covers for the grill and fire pit. Place the grill or fire pit when not in use in an area where even the harshest winds could not knock it over.

You should also hire steps to shield your whole patio or deck against constant and direct exposure to sunlight. Uv rays are not only harmful to human skin, but they can also cause colors in surfaces to fade. One explication is to have a shade, which can also block the rain. This can be in many forms. There are ready-to-use canopies you can Buy from home depots. You can also have a customized shade buildings built. If you have basic carpentry skills and some help, you will have a breeze doing this project. Seek shade building, framing and installation guides from online sources. Otherwise, you can all the time get pro installation services.

Augment the shade from the above said materials by planting trees and tall shrubs. There are grown trees you can buy from your local orchad shops or nurseries. In addition, there are other benefits from plants. Through them, your deck or patio would look more refreshing and beautiful. The air circulation in and out of your home would also be improved. And if you have many trees planted, your outdoor living space has more privacy.

How to Make Your Decks and Patios Look Great

Friday, August 19, 2011

Opportunities for Online building career Training

Students who wish to put in order for a occupation in the construction field can do so by gaining an accredited online education. There are numerous online schools and colleges that can provide students with the capability educational training they need to pursue a successful occupation in this tantalizing field. Some coursework for construction careers can be completed online but students may also be required to faultless hands on training based on the specific career. Training is available in a number of areas and a collection of levels for those looking to faultless an online program.

*Carpentry

Carpentry Framing

Career training can be completed online for those looking to enter the field of carpentry. Students can earn an accredited certificate or degree in this tantalizing area by learning framing, millwork, masonry, blueprints, construction materials, construction codes, and more. Online training will provide the skills needed to enter into a occupation working as contractors, estimators, woodworkers, engineers, roofers, foremen, and more. Training in carpentry can open a world of opportunities.

*Electrician and power Trades

Students who wish to train online for a occupation in electrician and power trades can do so through varied schools and colleges. Training is available through degree programs that focus on subjects such as electrical circuits, safety, equipment, math, and more. Students can receive the knowledge needed to find work as power plant workers, maintenance electricians, telephone line installers, construction electricians, and many other professions. Preparing for a occupation in this field can help students to seek the employment they desire.

*Home Inspection

Preparation for a occupation in home inspection can be completed by enrolling in an online educational training program. Students can train for a number of careers at the degree and certificate level. Coursework will teach students about construction methods, construction codes, inspection standards, regulations, contract specifications, and much more. Careers in home inspection can include working for real estate companies, underground businesses, prospective buyers, and more. Training online for a occupation in this area will help students gain the skills needed to succeed.

*Plumbing

Online schools and colleges offer students the opportunity to gain an accredited schooling in plumbing. Students can learn to come to be the expert they desire by completing a certificate or degree training program. Coursework may include the study of blueprints, plumbing codes, safety, chemistry, physics, and much more. Training in plumbing will allow learner to step into careers working for homeowners, contractors, and more. Online occupation Preparing will allow students to come to be a plumber by learning at their own leisure.

Enrolling in an accredited online school or college will help students to gain the capability schooling they need and desire. Agencies like the American Council for construction schooling ( http://www.acce-hq.org/ ) is beloved to fully accredit online educational training programs that meet distinct qualifying criteria. Students can put in order by researching available programs and enrolling in the one that fits their private needs. Start by looking into the occupation of your selection and looking an online construction program that offers the schooling you wish to obtain.

Disclaimer: Above is a Generic frame and may or may not depict strict methods, courses and/or focuses linked to Any One specific school(s) that may or may not be advertised at Petap.org.

Copyright 2010 - All possession reserved by Petap.org.

Opportunities for Online building career Training

Students who wish to put in order for a occupation in the construction field can do so by gaining an accredited online education. There are numerous online schools and colleges that can provide students with the capability educational training they need to pursue a successful occupation in this tantalizing field. Some coursework for construction careers can be completed online but students may also be required to faultless hands on training based on the specific career. Training is available in a number of areas and a collection of levels for those looking to faultless an online program.

*Carpentry

Carpentry Framing

Career training can be completed online for those looking to enter the field of carpentry. Students can earn an accredited certificate or degree in this tantalizing area by learning framing, millwork, masonry, blueprints, construction materials, construction codes, and more. Online training will provide the skills needed to enter into a occupation working as contractors, estimators, woodworkers, engineers, roofers, foremen, and more. Training in carpentry can open a world of opportunities.

*Electrician and power Trades

Students who wish to train online for a occupation in electrician and power trades can do so through varied schools and colleges. Training is available through degree programs that focus on subjects such as electrical circuits, safety, equipment, math, and more. Students can receive the knowledge needed to find work as power plant workers, maintenance electricians, telephone line installers, construction electricians, and many other professions. Preparing for a occupation in this field can help students to seek the employment they desire.

*Home Inspection

Preparation for a occupation in home inspection can be completed by enrolling in an online educational training program. Students can train for a number of careers at the degree and certificate level. Coursework will teach students about construction methods, construction codes, inspection standards, regulations, contract specifications, and much more. Careers in home inspection can include working for real estate companies, underground businesses, prospective buyers, and more. Training online for a occupation in this area will help students gain the skills needed to succeed.

*Plumbing

Online schools and colleges offer students the opportunity to gain an accredited schooling in plumbing. Students can learn to come to be the expert they desire by completing a certificate or degree training program. Coursework may include the study of blueprints, plumbing codes, safety, chemistry, physics, and much more. Training in plumbing will allow learner to step into careers working for homeowners, contractors, and more. Online occupation Preparing will allow students to come to be a plumber by learning at their own leisure.

Enrolling in an accredited online school or college will help students to gain the capability schooling they need and desire. Agencies like the American Council for construction schooling ( http://www.acce-hq.org/ ) is beloved to fully accredit online educational training programs that meet distinct qualifying criteria. Students can put in order by researching available programs and enrolling in the one that fits their private needs. Start by looking into the occupation of your selection and looking an online construction program that offers the schooling you wish to obtain.

Disclaimer: Above is a Generic frame and may or may not depict strict methods, courses and/or focuses linked to Any One specific school(s) that may or may not be advertised at Petap.org.

Copyright 2010 - All possession reserved by Petap.org.

Opportunities for Online building career Training

Thursday, August 18, 2011

Above Ground Pool Decks-Build From Scratch Or Buy PreFab?

Now that you have purchased and installed an above ground pool, you might want to consider adding an above ground pool deck as well. Adding a deck is quite often the next item on the pool owner's wish list.

Decking is a good addition for a concentrate of reasons; first, it adds more usable space to your pool by providing a horizontal surface at the water level for lounge chairs and other items. Next, adding an above ground pool deck will provide a closed look to your new pool. When it is whether partially or wholly surrounded by decking, your pool is a much more perfect and usable recreation area. And, it is a safety feature as well. When adequate with a locking gate (and most are) unauthorized persons are prevented from entering your pool.

Carpentry Framing

Constructing your own deck can conceivably save you some money but only if you already have the considerable carpentry and construction skills, tools and patience to see a large and complex construction project through to completion. If, on the other hand, you don't already possess the considerable tools and skills, an elevated deck is not the type of project to learn on.

So, if you aren't going to build it yourself, that leaves two options; one, hire a reputable firm to build one for you, or two, purchase a prefabricated deck. Both options have advantages and challenges.

If you choose to have a deck built for you have much more say in the decking build and the selection of the materials of the closed product. The challenge is that you will have to go for a constructor who is competent to meet all the local construction codes and has sense in constructing elevated swimming pool decks.

Should you decree on one of the many available prefabricated swimming pool decks, all the required parts and instructions for installation will be delivered to your location by truck. You are still responsible for meeting local construction codes while installing your new deck and once you have made your choice, the deck verily cannot be modified. The prefabricated decks are regularly constructed of powder coated steel framing underneath and resin decking and railings. These materials are more weather resistant than wood and will provide years of service with very small maintenance.

Above Ground Pool Decks-Build From Scratch Or Buy PreFab?

Now that you have purchased and installed an above ground pool, you might want to consider adding an above ground pool deck as well. Adding a deck is quite often the next item on the pool owner's wish list.

Decking is a good addition for a concentrate of reasons; first, it adds more usable space to your pool by providing a horizontal surface at the water level for lounge chairs and other items. Next, adding an above ground pool deck will provide a closed look to your new pool. When it is whether partially or wholly surrounded by decking, your pool is a much more perfect and usable recreation area. And, it is a safety feature as well. When adequate with a locking gate (and most are) unauthorized persons are prevented from entering your pool.

Carpentry Framing

Constructing your own deck can conceivably save you some money but only if you already have the considerable carpentry and construction skills, tools and patience to see a large and complex construction project through to completion. If, on the other hand, you don't already possess the considerable tools and skills, an elevated deck is not the type of project to learn on.

So, if you aren't going to build it yourself, that leaves two options; one, hire a reputable firm to build one for you, or two, purchase a prefabricated deck. Both options have advantages and challenges.

If you choose to have a deck built for you have much more say in the decking build and the selection of the materials of the closed product. The challenge is that you will have to go for a constructor who is competent to meet all the local construction codes and has sense in constructing elevated swimming pool decks.

Should you decree on one of the many available prefabricated swimming pool decks, all the required parts and instructions for installation will be delivered to your location by truck. You are still responsible for meeting local construction codes while installing your new deck and once you have made your choice, the deck verily cannot be modified. The prefabricated decks are regularly constructed of powder coated steel framing underneath and resin decking and railings. These materials are more weather resistant than wood and will provide years of service with very small maintenance.

Above Ground Pool Decks-Build From Scratch Or Buy PreFab?

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

easy Residential building schedule - Work Items

The building schedule is the heart of a housing business. The success of the home and finally the business that builds the home is dependent on planning and implementing the schedule. Financing, billing, building draws, closing, move in, warranty and even capability all flow from a flourishing schedule. In a series of articles we will try and take you from start to close on designing a repeatable process of scheduling a home. We will assume that the reader knows little about the building process so those of you who have some level of expertise may jump around.

In these articles we will be concerned with the bodily onsite building of a 2,500 to 3000 sf semi-custom home. In this particular record we will discuss development a list of work items to be included in the schedule. In latter articles we will add preplanning and the end process.

Carpentry Framing

The first step in preparing a building schedule is determining the work items to be included. Start with your list of trades (subcontractors.) Make sure you consist of any items you do with your own employees to the list. The following is the list we used in our estimates and invoices, Your may vary depending on your area and how you ageement your work.

501 Excavation

502 Concrete

502A sidewalk

503 Asphalt

504 Masonry

505 Steel

506 Stairs

507 Carpentry Labor

507 Trim Carp

510 Millwork and doors

511 Windows

512 Siding

514 Insulation

515 Roofing

516 Gutters

517 Drywall

518 Hardware

520 Flooring

521 Paint

522 Mirror

522 Shelving

523 garage door

524 Cabinets

525 Kitchen top

525 Marble top

526 Appliance

527 Heating

528 Plumbing

529 Electric

530 Lights

532 Sewer Water

533 Other

534 Landscaping

Next look at each trade and divide the trade into trips to the project. For example; in our case our Excavation contractor would clear the site and dig the basement foundation in one trip. He would make a second to backfill the foundation and rough grade the site and a third to final grad the site for landscaping. Try and keep the divisions of work to no less than a day and no more than a week. For example, if you let all the carpentry as on ageement and you only break it down into rough and close the rough may take more than a week. You can breakdown the rough carpentry into frame first floor and walls, second floor and wall and roof framing and sheeting. Breaking down the longer items helps you best manage the task and understand where you are on any given date.

You should also look at how your trade contractors accomplish their work. We used several distinct concrete contractors. One would install the footings, the stone for the basement and draintile with one crew and then the walls with a second. Other concrete contractor installed the footing and foundation walls with one crew then come back with a conveyor he owned to install the stone and draintile. The total time was the same but the sequence was different.

Now that you have identified the work items you need to recognize activities that also require time that are not actual work items. Make a list of required inspections. These will vary from municipality to municipality. Typical in our area was footing inspection after form but before pour, backfill inspection, completed foundation survey, rough framing, rough plumbing, rough electrical, occupancy and final grading, final plumbing and final electrical. The final inspection often required a final search for from a licensed surveyor certifying the location of the house was as planned and that the drainage was properly completed. Each of these items should be treated as a work item.

You now have a complete list of work items which is the first step in creating a easy schedule. In the next record Creating a Flow Chart we will discuss using the work items list into a flow chart to plan your work.

easy Residential building schedule - Work Items

The building schedule is the heart of a housing business. The success of the home and finally the business that builds the home is dependent on planning and implementing the schedule. Financing, billing, building draws, closing, move in, warranty and even capability all flow from a flourishing schedule. In a series of articles we will try and take you from start to close on designing a repeatable process of scheduling a home. We will assume that the reader knows little about the building process so those of you who have some level of expertise may jump around.

In these articles we will be concerned with the bodily onsite building of a 2,500 to 3000 sf semi-custom home. In this particular record we will discuss development a list of work items to be included in the schedule. In latter articles we will add preplanning and the end process.

Carpentry Framing

The first step in preparing a building schedule is determining the work items to be included. Start with your list of trades (subcontractors.) Make sure you consist of any items you do with your own employees to the list. The following is the list we used in our estimates and invoices, Your may vary depending on your area and how you ageement your work.

501 Excavation

502 Concrete

502A sidewalk

503 Asphalt

504 Masonry

505 Steel

506 Stairs

507 Carpentry Labor

507 Trim Carp

510 Millwork and doors

511 Windows

512 Siding

514 Insulation

515 Roofing

516 Gutters

517 Drywall

518 Hardware

520 Flooring

521 Paint

522 Mirror

522 Shelving

523 garage door

524 Cabinets

525 Kitchen top

525 Marble top

526 Appliance

527 Heating

528 Plumbing

529 Electric

530 Lights

532 Sewer Water

533 Other

534 Landscaping

Next look at each trade and divide the trade into trips to the project. For example; in our case our Excavation contractor would clear the site and dig the basement foundation in one trip. He would make a second to backfill the foundation and rough grade the site and a third to final grad the site for landscaping. Try and keep the divisions of work to no less than a day and no more than a week. For example, if you let all the carpentry as on ageement and you only break it down into rough and close the rough may take more than a week. You can breakdown the rough carpentry into frame first floor and walls, second floor and wall and roof framing and sheeting. Breaking down the longer items helps you best manage the task and understand where you are on any given date.

You should also look at how your trade contractors accomplish their work. We used several distinct concrete contractors. One would install the footings, the stone for the basement and draintile with one crew and then the walls with a second. Other concrete contractor installed the footing and foundation walls with one crew then come back with a conveyor he owned to install the stone and draintile. The total time was the same but the sequence was different.

Now that you have identified the work items you need to recognize activities that also require time that are not actual work items. Make a list of required inspections. These will vary from municipality to municipality. Typical in our area was footing inspection after form but before pour, backfill inspection, completed foundation survey, rough framing, rough plumbing, rough electrical, occupancy and final grading, final plumbing and final electrical. The final inspection often required a final search for from a licensed surveyor certifying the location of the house was as planned and that the drainage was properly completed. Each of these items should be treated as a work item.

You now have a complete list of work items which is the first step in creating a easy schedule. In the next record Creating a Flow Chart we will discuss using the work items list into a flow chart to plan your work.

easy Residential building schedule - Work Items

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

How Much Money Do Carpenters Make?

If you want to know how much money do carpenters make all I can say is it depends if your employed or self employed. If your self employed the sky's the limit you could make a very good living for arguments sake ,000 a week would be well within your reach. But there are things you should think about before becoming a self employed carpenter. You have to think about renting or buying a unit to work in which is going to cost you monthly rent or cash upfront then you have employees to organise and pay for which can be a real head ache.

So there is up and down sides to becoming a self employed carpenter. But how much money do carpenters make when employed. Again this depends on how experienced you are. I've been employed and self employed as a carpenter and I must say there is ups and downs on both sides. When I was employed as an experienced carpenter I was development about 0.00 a week. When I was self employed I made nearby ,500.00 a week after all the over heads.

Carpentry Framing

So why would you want to know the quiz, to how much money do carpenters make? It maybe that you are mental about becoming a carpenter. But before you make your decision let me tell you my experience with carpentry. Like I said I was a carpenter for some years after I left school 5 years in total and even though I was development money I was only development ends meet and didn't indubitably have a life after I paid my bills.

How much money do carpenters make? Not adequate is my answer. So I started seeing for other ways to make money. I started to look online as I liked the idea of working at home not having to get up and go to work at 6am in the wet and cold. I liked the idea of getting paid 24/7 and getting paid in my sleep. I'm not going to say it was an easy ride I lost a lot of money trying to find the exquisite online firm and got scammed time and time again.

I finally found what I was seeing for after 2 years of getting scammed out of my money and you can try it out free. This guy makes ,000 each and every month in the facts publishing firm which is what I'm in right now.

How Much Money Do Carpenters Make?

If you want to know how much money do carpenters make all I can say is it depends if your employed or self employed. If your self employed the sky's the limit you could make a very good living for arguments sake ,000 a week would be well within your reach. But there are things you should think about before becoming a self employed carpenter. You have to think about renting or buying a unit to work in which is going to cost you monthly rent or cash upfront then you have employees to organise and pay for which can be a real head ache.

So there is up and down sides to becoming a self employed carpenter. But how much money do carpenters make when employed. Again this depends on how experienced you are. I've been employed and self employed as a carpenter and I must say there is ups and downs on both sides. When I was employed as an experienced carpenter I was development about 0.00 a week. When I was self employed I made nearby ,500.00 a week after all the over heads.

Carpentry Framing

So why would you want to know the quiz, to how much money do carpenters make? It maybe that you are mental about becoming a carpenter. But before you make your decision let me tell you my experience with carpentry. Like I said I was a carpenter for some years after I left school 5 years in total and even though I was development money I was only development ends meet and didn't indubitably have a life after I paid my bills.

How much money do carpenters make? Not adequate is my answer. So I started seeing for other ways to make money. I started to look online as I liked the idea of working at home not having to get up and go to work at 6am in the wet and cold. I liked the idea of getting paid 24/7 and getting paid in my sleep. I'm not going to say it was an easy ride I lost a lot of money trying to find the exquisite online firm and got scammed time and time again.

I finally found what I was seeing for after 2 years of getting scammed out of my money and you can try it out free. This guy makes ,000 each and every month in the facts publishing firm which is what I'm in right now.

How Much Money Do Carpenters Make?

Monday, August 15, 2011

The principal Woodworking Tools for Your Shop

Who doesn't dream of building his or her own furniture, knick-knacks, bookshelves, and boxes? Woodworking is a fun and rewarding hobby that whatever can learn to do. If you are just starting out, try not to be intimidated by all the master craftsmen out there. At one point, they had to start out too. Every person began with that first birdhouse or footstool. Eventually, you will be able to build with the big dogs too. an additional one thing that can be intimidating for the novice woodworker, is the equipment, both tools and machinery, complex in woodworking. This does not have to be the case. Just make one buy at a time, and build your variety slowly. No one has the money to buy everything he needs in top quality when he is just starting out. This is impossible and ill-advised. What if you decree that you do not like woodworking after your first integrate projects? Then you are stuck with thousands of dollars of equipment. No, it is better to build moderately from the lowest up when you are stocking your workshop. Here are a list of tools and machinery that you can use to begin your collection.

One of the basics you will need in your shop is a good set of chisels. Chisels come in a variety of sizes, from one to two inches, and you will use all of them eventually. It is worth it to buy top of the line chisels, as they will get a lot of use and their endurance will have a opening to be proven over the years. You can also buy a mallet to complement your chisels, and to make your job easier.

Carpentry Framing

Clamps are the principal ingredient in gluing together objects. You will need this piece of equipment to hold your objects in place while the glue dries. Clamps come in many dissimilar sizes, and can ordinarily be found used in decent condition. However, they are not overly high-priced if you want to buy them new.

Carpenter squares and framing squares are what you want to make exact measurements and angles when you are working with wood. You can also buy a try quadrilateral or a mixture square.

Electric drills are principal for most woodworking enterprises. You do not want to be stuck wearing out your wrist by screwing in bolts and screws with a screwdriver for hours. You can find economy drills in the cord variety, but cordless drills are recommended for big projects, so you do not always have to crusade for an outlet or extension cord. However, it helps to buy a cordless drill with two batteries. Why does it need two? So you can charge one while you work. You will use a lot of power in your projects.

As a last piece of advice, never invest in cheap tools. Be outpatient in building your collection. Cheap tools will never pay off in the long run. You will always have to replace them with something better ultimately and you will end up spending twice as much money.

The principal Woodworking Tools for Your Shop

Who doesn't dream of building his or her own furniture, knick-knacks, bookshelves, and boxes? Woodworking is a fun and rewarding hobby that whatever can learn to do. If you are just starting out, try not to be intimidated by all the master craftsmen out there. At one point, they had to start out too. Every person began with that first birdhouse or footstool. Eventually, you will be able to build with the big dogs too. an additional one thing that can be intimidating for the novice woodworker, is the equipment, both tools and machinery, complex in woodworking. This does not have to be the case. Just make one buy at a time, and build your variety slowly. No one has the money to buy everything he needs in top quality when he is just starting out. This is impossible and ill-advised. What if you decree that you do not like woodworking after your first integrate projects? Then you are stuck with thousands of dollars of equipment. No, it is better to build moderately from the lowest up when you are stocking your workshop. Here are a list of tools and machinery that you can use to begin your collection.

One of the basics you will need in your shop is a good set of chisels. Chisels come in a variety of sizes, from one to two inches, and you will use all of them eventually. It is worth it to buy top of the line chisels, as they will get a lot of use and their endurance will have a opening to be proven over the years. You can also buy a mallet to complement your chisels, and to make your job easier.

Carpentry Framing

Clamps are the principal ingredient in gluing together objects. You will need this piece of equipment to hold your objects in place while the glue dries. Clamps come in many dissimilar sizes, and can ordinarily be found used in decent condition. However, they are not overly high-priced if you want to buy them new.

Carpenter squares and framing squares are what you want to make exact measurements and angles when you are working with wood. You can also buy a try quadrilateral or a mixture square.

Electric drills are principal for most woodworking enterprises. You do not want to be stuck wearing out your wrist by screwing in bolts and screws with a screwdriver for hours. You can find economy drills in the cord variety, but cordless drills are recommended for big projects, so you do not always have to crusade for an outlet or extension cord. However, it helps to buy a cordless drill with two batteries. Why does it need two? So you can charge one while you work. You will use a lot of power in your projects.

As a last piece of advice, never invest in cheap tools. Be outpatient in building your collection. Cheap tools will never pay off in the long run. You will always have to replace them with something better ultimately and you will end up spending twice as much money.

The principal Woodworking Tools for Your Shop

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Why Pay a Contractor? Build Your Own Home

Why pay a contractor? - Build your own home

You've heard the stories before...

Carpentry Framing

The contractor made 100 grand on the job and I never saw him! The job took a year longer than planned... The job cost twice as much as the primary budget...Where are my sub contractors?

Why not cut out the contractor and keep all the money for yourself? Good idea but can you handle the truth

One of the primary jobs of the general contractor (Gc) or homebuilder is to carry on the sub contractors. A sub contractor (see partial list below) is defined as person who contracts with the Gc - like a plumber - while the general contractor contracts with the owner. Therefore, the Gc's covenant with the owner is the main covenant and the Gc's covenant with the plumber is a "sub" contract. A typical institution home can in effect have over 100 sub contractors, and one of the primary jobs of a contractor is to oversee all of these independent businesses.

So what makes a good homebuilder?

Relationships

A good homebuilder has strong relationships with sub contractors and suppliers that may have evolved over many years. That connection involves a level of trust, understanding and expectation. Have you ever hired person for any kind of work? It takes a while to frame out that person's strengths and weaknesses. The same is true for homebuilders. Managing complicated sub contractors means coordinating the schedule, overseeing the allowable materials and installation, contracting, and paying each sub contractor.

Expertise

Sure, a "non-professional" can hire sub contractors and buy materials but it's going to be harder for person to comprehend all the aspects of the building process the same way a professional does.

I could probably learn how to do brain surgical operation too! But I'm not sure you would want to be my first patient!!!

According to Dr. K. Anders Ericsson, a Conradi Eminent expert and Professor of science of mind at Florida State University who is widely recognized as one of the world's prominent theoretical and experimental researchers on expertise, it takes about 10,000 hours of institution to reach the level of expert.

Expert - 10,000 hours - that means 250 weeks @ 40 hours or 5 years. Technician - 5,000 hours to be very accomplished industrialized - 2,000 hours you come to be pretty good Layperson - has small or no institution in a field

And we are not just talking about expertise in hundreds of different building trades and techniques, but also the building Code, local rules and regulations, human relations, management, legal issues, safety, and political savvy.

Flow of work

Ever hear of a building job that took longer than it was supposed to?? Unfortunately it seems to be the institution not the exception.. Did you see the movie "The Money Pit" (a must see if you haven't!)? "Two weeks" is the answer to every inquire about how long it will take. Obviously, some smarmy contractors are at fault here. However, the client also has a responsibility to bear. The whole one speculate jobs slow down (assuming an attentive and professional builder is running them) is lack of proper information. The plans aren't specified properly. The owner hasn't finalized a decision.

When the flow of work is mismanaged or changed, it can have a devastating corollary on a job. The longer a job takes the more it costs - interest cost, overhead and rental costs to name a few. A well run job requires a good "helmsman" steering the way. Changes are certain in a institution home but the fewer the better. Good planning helps a huge amount, but when there is a change, the contractor needs to steer the proper change through design, permitting (if necessary), pricing, scheduling and doing to get the job back on track.

Sub contractors work differently than general contractors and it is prominent to understand this relationship. A sub may have 5, 10 or 20 jobs going on at a time and if a job changes or isn't ready when the sub is told to be there, it wastes time (time is money) for the sub. Fresh contractors fall into the trap of not having the job prepared or the proper specifications or materials available.

Quality

In expanding to overseeing the flow of work, a good contractor has a solid understanding of all phases of building and (hopefully) design. The contractor needs to know everything from what makes a good foundation facility - items such as clearance to rebar - to the single type and ability of a piece of wood - quarter sawn, rift cut, hard or soft. What makes a ability tile facility or retaining wall waterproofing system. The practices change in different parts of the country and different climates.

The contractor must understand the ever-changing building codes and regulations. He also needs to sound a safe job site and insure all sub contractors corollary the same practices.

Certainly building a home is not brain surgery, but just like every other profession, it looks easier than it is. If you want to take on building your own home there are many good books available to help you get started. In addition, investigate other ways to build such as getting the aid of a builder as a advisor or hiring an experienced building supervisor. Whichever way you go - learn what you can ahead of time. Even if you hire a contractor, you will still be heavily complicated and manufacture 1,000's of decisions to get the institution home you want.

Good luck!

Partial List of Sub Contractors

Alarm Archeologist Asbestos Abatement Backhoe and Bobcat Bee's Nest Removal Cabinets Carpet Chimney Sweep Concrete Concrete Resurfacing Concrete Coring Concrete Pilings Concrete Retaining Walls Decking Drainage Drywall Electricians Engineers Excavation Framing Carpentry Fencing terminate Carpentry Fireplace Masonry Fire Sprinkler stable Doors Geologist Grading Handyman - Repair Hardwood Flooring Hvac - Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning Hot Tubs Interior Design Insulation Fiberglass Spray Foam Kitchen Design Lab Testing - Mold Testing Landscaping landscape Maintenance landscape - Tree assistance Lumber Supplier Low Voltage Computer Phone Audio Visual Alarm House control Systems Masonry provocative and Storage Native American Monitor Oil Tanks Painting Painting - Decorative Pest Removal Plumbing Pools Radon Gas Railings Retaining Walls Roofing Roof Trusses Screening Sealants Seismic Retrofitting Sewer Sheet Metal Siding Specialty Items Sauna secret Rooms Wine Cellars Sprinklers Solar Electric Solar Thermal Stone Fabricators Stucco Surveyors Trash and Hauling Tile Installation Supply Waterproofing Windows and Door Supply

Why Pay a Contractor? Build Your Own Home

Why pay a contractor? - Build your own home

You've heard the stories before...

Carpentry Framing

The contractor made 100 grand on the job and I never saw him! The job took a year longer than planned... The job cost twice as much as the primary budget...Where are my sub contractors?

Why not cut out the contractor and keep all the money for yourself? Good idea but can you handle the truth

One of the primary jobs of the general contractor (Gc) or homebuilder is to carry on the sub contractors. A sub contractor (see partial list below) is defined as person who contracts with the Gc - like a plumber - while the general contractor contracts with the owner. Therefore, the Gc's covenant with the owner is the main covenant and the Gc's covenant with the plumber is a "sub" contract. A typical institution home can in effect have over 100 sub contractors, and one of the primary jobs of a contractor is to oversee all of these independent businesses.

So what makes a good homebuilder?

Relationships

A good homebuilder has strong relationships with sub contractors and suppliers that may have evolved over many years. That connection involves a level of trust, understanding and expectation. Have you ever hired person for any kind of work? It takes a while to frame out that person's strengths and weaknesses. The same is true for homebuilders. Managing complicated sub contractors means coordinating the schedule, overseeing the allowable materials and installation, contracting, and paying each sub contractor.

Expertise

Sure, a "non-professional" can hire sub contractors and buy materials but it's going to be harder for person to comprehend all the aspects of the building process the same way a professional does.

I could probably learn how to do brain surgical operation too! But I'm not sure you would want to be my first patient!!!

According to Dr. K. Anders Ericsson, a Conradi Eminent expert and Professor of science of mind at Florida State University who is widely recognized as one of the world's prominent theoretical and experimental researchers on expertise, it takes about 10,000 hours of institution to reach the level of expert.

Expert - 10,000 hours - that means 250 weeks @ 40 hours or 5 years. Technician - 5,000 hours to be very accomplished industrialized - 2,000 hours you come to be pretty good Layperson - has small or no institution in a field

And we are not just talking about expertise in hundreds of different building trades and techniques, but also the building Code, local rules and regulations, human relations, management, legal issues, safety, and political savvy.

Flow of work

Ever hear of a building job that took longer than it was supposed to?? Unfortunately it seems to be the institution not the exception.. Did you see the movie "The Money Pit" (a must see if you haven't!)? "Two weeks" is the answer to every inquire about how long it will take. Obviously, some smarmy contractors are at fault here. However, the client also has a responsibility to bear. The whole one speculate jobs slow down (assuming an attentive and professional builder is running them) is lack of proper information. The plans aren't specified properly. The owner hasn't finalized a decision.

When the flow of work is mismanaged or changed, it can have a devastating corollary on a job. The longer a job takes the more it costs - interest cost, overhead and rental costs to name a few. A well run job requires a good "helmsman" steering the way. Changes are certain in a institution home but the fewer the better. Good planning helps a huge amount, but when there is a change, the contractor needs to steer the proper change through design, permitting (if necessary), pricing, scheduling and doing to get the job back on track.

Sub contractors work differently than general contractors and it is prominent to understand this relationship. A sub may have 5, 10 or 20 jobs going on at a time and if a job changes or isn't ready when the sub is told to be there, it wastes time (time is money) for the sub. Fresh contractors fall into the trap of not having the job prepared or the proper specifications or materials available.

Quality

In expanding to overseeing the flow of work, a good contractor has a solid understanding of all phases of building and (hopefully) design. The contractor needs to know everything from what makes a good foundation facility - items such as clearance to rebar - to the single type and ability of a piece of wood - quarter sawn, rift cut, hard or soft. What makes a ability tile facility or retaining wall waterproofing system. The practices change in different parts of the country and different climates.

The contractor must understand the ever-changing building codes and regulations. He also needs to sound a safe job site and insure all sub contractors corollary the same practices.

Certainly building a home is not brain surgery, but just like every other profession, it looks easier than it is. If you want to take on building your own home there are many good books available to help you get started. In addition, investigate other ways to build such as getting the aid of a builder as a advisor or hiring an experienced building supervisor. Whichever way you go - learn what you can ahead of time. Even if you hire a contractor, you will still be heavily complicated and manufacture 1,000's of decisions to get the institution home you want.

Good luck!

Partial List of Sub Contractors

Alarm Archeologist Asbestos Abatement Backhoe and Bobcat Bee's Nest Removal Cabinets Carpet Chimney Sweep Concrete Concrete Resurfacing Concrete Coring Concrete Pilings Concrete Retaining Walls Decking Drainage Drywall Electricians Engineers Excavation Framing Carpentry Fencing terminate Carpentry Fireplace Masonry Fire Sprinkler stable Doors Geologist Grading Handyman - Repair Hardwood Flooring Hvac - Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning Hot Tubs Interior Design Insulation Fiberglass Spray Foam Kitchen Design Lab Testing - Mold Testing Landscaping landscape Maintenance landscape - Tree assistance Lumber Supplier Low Voltage Computer Phone Audio Visual Alarm House control Systems Masonry provocative and Storage Native American Monitor Oil Tanks Painting Painting - Decorative Pest Removal Plumbing Pools Radon Gas Railings Retaining Walls Roofing Roof Trusses Screening Sealants Seismic Retrofitting Sewer Sheet Metal Siding Specialty Items Sauna secret Rooms Wine Cellars Sprinklers Solar Electric Solar Thermal Stone Fabricators Stucco Surveyors Trash and Hauling Tile Installation Supply Waterproofing Windows and Door Supply

Why Pay a Contractor? Build Your Own Home

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Woodworking Tools - Buy the Basics, Buy quality

To truly enjoy woodworking as a hobby, and to pursue the activity on a more serious basis, it will be principal to have the literal, woodworking tools. In order for any activity or pastime to be relaxing and successful, proper tools are a must. But this does not mean that the beginner has to spend a fortune to get the new hobby underway. Good used tools for woodworking are available, and many sources sell fine tools and power equipment at discount.

Basic Woodworking Tools

Carpentry Framing

Here are some of the basic woodworking tools needed for a good start:

• Chisels: It is best to look for durability when shopping for chisels, so it may be best not to try and save money on this item. The woodworker uses chisels quite a bit and this key item should be built to last. Rockler chisels are a good bet, according to many with experience. The starting workshop will probably need chisels fluctuating in size from ¼ inch to 2 inches in width. But chisel size will depend on the projects planned. A woodworking mallet is a good accessory for flourishing chisel work. It would be best not to pound on the cope of a good chisel with a regular hammer!

• Clamps: These helpful items are needed when gluing projects and they come in a wide range of sizes. Clamps are relatively reasonable and most of those sold in market and at tool auctions will work fine. Clamps can sometimes be found used, in good condition, so the wise craftsman will pick up extra clamps when possible.

• Carpenter and woodworking squares: This is a tool that can make a principal when construction furniture and other items that need literal, corners and angles. Every workshop or tool kit should have a framing square or carpenter square. A tri-square is used in furniture projects, with sizes fluctuating from 3 inches to as large as 12 inches. Many squares are marked in both inches and in the metric scale. The combination, or two-piece, square has a headpiece that slides on a steel blade.

• Drills: Most workshops will need a power drill, either a cordless model for portability or a drill that is related to the power source. A good drill should have reverse capabilities, changeable speed and some attachments. High-voltage batteries are best for cordless drills, to ensure fullness of power for projects. Two batteries are a great idea, so that one can be charged while the other is working for you. A good option of drill bits is also essential.

• Hand planes: These age-old, primary tools are used for a range of projects. For example, the jackplane is most often used for rough shaping (various sizes). A block plane is generally a trimming plane. Smoothing planes are employed for fine shaping and tend to be a bit smaller.

Finding Tools

It is best not to rush out and buy cheaper tools just to get the workshop supplied. A bit of patience and some truthful shopping should turn up quality tools that won't break the budget. In addition to local hardware stores, craftsmen and builders often find exquisite tools on the Web or at auctions. Take care when purchasing used tools however. Good tools last a long time and will pay for themselves many times over.

Woodworking Tools - Buy the Basics, Buy quality

To truly enjoy woodworking as a hobby, and to pursue the activity on a more serious basis, it will be principal to have the literal, woodworking tools. In order for any activity or pastime to be relaxing and successful, proper tools are a must. But this does not mean that the beginner has to spend a fortune to get the new hobby underway. Good used tools for woodworking are available, and many sources sell fine tools and power equipment at discount.

Basic Woodworking Tools

Carpentry Framing

Here are some of the basic woodworking tools needed for a good start:

• Chisels: It is best to look for durability when shopping for chisels, so it may be best not to try and save money on this item. The woodworker uses chisels quite a bit and this key item should be built to last. Rockler chisels are a good bet, according to many with experience. The starting workshop will probably need chisels fluctuating in size from ¼ inch to 2 inches in width. But chisel size will depend on the projects planned. A woodworking mallet is a good accessory for flourishing chisel work. It would be best not to pound on the cope of a good chisel with a regular hammer!

• Clamps: These helpful items are needed when gluing projects and they come in a wide range of sizes. Clamps are relatively reasonable and most of those sold in market and at tool auctions will work fine. Clamps can sometimes be found used, in good condition, so the wise craftsman will pick up extra clamps when possible.

• Carpenter and woodworking squares: This is a tool that can make a principal when construction furniture and other items that need literal, corners and angles. Every workshop or tool kit should have a framing square or carpenter square. A tri-square is used in furniture projects, with sizes fluctuating from 3 inches to as large as 12 inches. Many squares are marked in both inches and in the metric scale. The combination, or two-piece, square has a headpiece that slides on a steel blade.

• Drills: Most workshops will need a power drill, either a cordless model for portability or a drill that is related to the power source. A good drill should have reverse capabilities, changeable speed and some attachments. High-voltage batteries are best for cordless drills, to ensure fullness of power for projects. Two batteries are a great idea, so that one can be charged while the other is working for you. A good option of drill bits is also essential.

• Hand planes: These age-old, primary tools are used for a range of projects. For example, the jackplane is most often used for rough shaping (various sizes). A block plane is generally a trimming plane. Smoothing planes are employed for fine shaping and tend to be a bit smaller.

Finding Tools

It is best not to rush out and buy cheaper tools just to get the workshop supplied. A bit of patience and some truthful shopping should turn up quality tools that won't break the budget. In addition to local hardware stores, craftsmen and builders often find exquisite tools on the Web or at auctions. Take care when purchasing used tools however. Good tools last a long time and will pay for themselves many times over.

Woodworking Tools - Buy the Basics, Buy quality

Friday, August 12, 2011

How to come to be a Journeyman Carpenter

Carpenters seem to do more work on a job site than any other skilled construction tradesman.  They build the molds for the concrete foundation, frame up the walls, windows and doors, lay in the floor base and often hang the sheetrock on the inside of the structure and the shingles, or tile, or vinyl, or composite siding on the outside.  They are also in the middle of problem solving when there are problems with the positions of electrical outlets or difficulties with the roofing and the molding beneath it.

There are any paths that an aspiring carpenter can take to collect the needful training for becoming a professional.  As with most construction trades, the traditional path to journeyman status has been through an apprenticeship.  Employers with union membership in their ranks often co-sponsor apprenticeship programs with the carpenter's union.  These programs, however, don't come close to training all of the new carpenters arrival into the industry.

Carpentry Framing

A carpentry apprenticeship can last 3-4 years.  In the absence of a formal apprenticeship program, some individuals get a job as a carpenter's helper and attend classes in the trade offered by a vocational school, a community college or an online university.  The classroom work is important, both to the student and to the potential employer.

Classroom studies contain working with basic mathematics: algebra, geometry, and trigonometry.  There is instruction in reading blueprints and construction documents that supply job details.  You'll learn to classify various woods by their characteristics such as hardness, quality to withstand exposure, and tendency to splinter or crack.  The teacher will construe the basics complicated in framing a building, putting up a roof and construction a stairway.  You'll learn about various types of millwork and joints used in connecting structural components.

Students who opt to pursue the classroom work in develop of seeking a job as a helper or apprentice are more likely to be hired because of the footwork they've done.  Getting into the classroom for a diploma or certificate agenda in carpentry can kick start your occupation in the trade.

The other goal for prolonged instruction in the field is management.  Because carpenters are exposed to all facets of a construction job, they are often candidates to come to be a job foreman.  With a minuscule more formal instruction and some supervisorial experience, you may found yet someone else new occupation as a task manager.

How to come to be a Journeyman Carpenter

Carpenters seem to do more work on a job site than any other skilled construction tradesman.  They build the molds for the concrete foundation, frame up the walls, windows and doors, lay in the floor base and often hang the sheetrock on the inside of the structure and the shingles, or tile, or vinyl, or composite siding on the outside.  They are also in the middle of problem solving when there are problems with the positions of electrical outlets or difficulties with the roofing and the molding beneath it.

There are any paths that an aspiring carpenter can take to collect the needful training for becoming a professional.  As with most construction trades, the traditional path to journeyman status has been through an apprenticeship.  Employers with union membership in their ranks often co-sponsor apprenticeship programs with the carpenter's union.  These programs, however, don't come close to training all of the new carpenters arrival into the industry.

Carpentry Framing

A carpentry apprenticeship can last 3-4 years.  In the absence of a formal apprenticeship program, some individuals get a job as a carpenter's helper and attend classes in the trade offered by a vocational school, a community college or an online university.  The classroom work is important, both to the student and to the potential employer.

Classroom studies contain working with basic mathematics: algebra, geometry, and trigonometry.  There is instruction in reading blueprints and construction documents that supply job details.  You'll learn to classify various woods by their characteristics such as hardness, quality to withstand exposure, and tendency to splinter or crack.  The teacher will construe the basics complicated in framing a building, putting up a roof and construction a stairway.  You'll learn about various types of millwork and joints used in connecting structural components.

Students who opt to pursue the classroom work in develop of seeking a job as a helper or apprentice are more likely to be hired because of the footwork they've done.  Getting into the classroom for a diploma or certificate agenda in carpentry can kick start your occupation in the trade.

The other goal for prolonged instruction in the field is management.  Because carpenters are exposed to all facets of a construction job, they are often candidates to come to be a job foreman.  With a minuscule more formal instruction and some supervisorial experience, you may found yet someone else new occupation as a task manager.

How to come to be a Journeyman Carpenter

Thursday, August 11, 2011

Tips on How to Build a Drywall Ceiling

One of the first things the do-it-yourselfer realizes when learning how to build a drywall ceiling is that no man is an island - unless he uses rented equipment! Because the panels are big, bulky, and awkward, hanging drywall on a ceiling entails one or the other: the help of an additional one man or renting a drywall jack from your local home improvement center. The cable mechanism on drywall jacks is not difficult to operate, and jacks do an perfect job of retention the drywall in a secure, flat position enabling you to more well attach it to the ceiling.

Tools & Materials

Carpentry Framing

How to build a drywall ceiling includes knowing what all tools and material you'll need. In addition to whether an additional one man to help you or a drywall jack, you'll also need a hammer, a drill with a screwdriver bit, and nails or screws for drywall. You'll also, of course, need to quantum your ceiling (twice!) and purchase adequate drywall, together with a dinky extra in case of mistakes, to do the job.

Mark Joists First

Find the boards - normally 2x4s or 2x6s - that function as ceiling joists by tapping along the wall studs with a hammer and following up the wall to the ceiling. As part of learning how to build a drywall ceiling, mark where these boards are located with a pencil. These are what you will be attaching the drywall to and marking them beforehand makes it much easier to find them than trying to find them as you are nailing or screwing on the drywall. You then need to quantum where the light fixture goes on the drywall and cut out a hole to adapt that area of the ceiling.

The Tough Part

Now's the part in learning how to build a drywall ceiling where you'll need the other man (who hopefully has plentifulness of durableness in addition to strength!) to hold the drywall up to the ceiling or to put the drywall panel on the jack. Position the end of the sheet of drywall - with its ended side facing down - at the town of the ceiling board (joist) to which you are going to nail it. Nail colse to the covering of the panel about a half an inch from the edges to forestall the drywall from splitting or cracking. The man who is retention the panel can now move or, if you're using a jack, you can move it out of the way.

Make It Pretty

Countersink nails or screws at six- or seven-inch intervals all along the length of the joist to which the drywall has been attached. Countersinking allows you to cover up the heads of the nails/screws with combination so that when you paint, the heads won't be at all visible. Although not well a part of knowing how to build a drywall ceiling, learning how to cover up ugly nail or screw heads serves its own purpose for allembracing normal carpentry knowledge.

Learning how to build a drywall ceiling takes a lot more muscle than to attach the sheets to the walls, but it can be done with a dinky thought, at least one other person, and/or a jack. It well is pretty hard work, but, hey, after all - you can do anything, right?

Tips on How to Build a Drywall Ceiling

One of the first things the do-it-yourselfer realizes when learning how to build a drywall ceiling is that no man is an island - unless he uses rented equipment! Because the panels are big, bulky, and awkward, hanging drywall on a ceiling entails one or the other: the help of an additional one man or renting a drywall jack from your local home improvement center. The cable mechanism on drywall jacks is not difficult to operate, and jacks do an perfect job of retention the drywall in a secure, flat position enabling you to more well attach it to the ceiling.

Tools & Materials

Carpentry Framing

How to build a drywall ceiling includes knowing what all tools and material you'll need. In addition to whether an additional one man to help you or a drywall jack, you'll also need a hammer, a drill with a screwdriver bit, and nails or screws for drywall. You'll also, of course, need to quantum your ceiling (twice!) and purchase adequate drywall, together with a dinky extra in case of mistakes, to do the job.

Mark Joists First

Find the boards - normally 2x4s or 2x6s - that function as ceiling joists by tapping along the wall studs with a hammer and following up the wall to the ceiling. As part of learning how to build a drywall ceiling, mark where these boards are located with a pencil. These are what you will be attaching the drywall to and marking them beforehand makes it much easier to find them than trying to find them as you are nailing or screwing on the drywall. You then need to quantum where the light fixture goes on the drywall and cut out a hole to adapt that area of the ceiling.

The Tough Part

Now's the part in learning how to build a drywall ceiling where you'll need the other man (who hopefully has plentifulness of durableness in addition to strength!) to hold the drywall up to the ceiling or to put the drywall panel on the jack. Position the end of the sheet of drywall - with its ended side facing down - at the town of the ceiling board (joist) to which you are going to nail it. Nail colse to the covering of the panel about a half an inch from the edges to forestall the drywall from splitting or cracking. The man who is retention the panel can now move or, if you're using a jack, you can move it out of the way.

Make It Pretty

Countersink nails or screws at six- or seven-inch intervals all along the length of the joist to which the drywall has been attached. Countersinking allows you to cover up the heads of the nails/screws with combination so that when you paint, the heads won't be at all visible. Although not well a part of knowing how to build a drywall ceiling, learning how to cover up ugly nail or screw heads serves its own purpose for allembracing normal carpentry knowledge.

Learning how to build a drywall ceiling takes a lot more muscle than to attach the sheets to the walls, but it can be done with a dinky thought, at least one other person, and/or a jack. It well is pretty hard work, but, hey, after all - you can do anything, right?

Tips on How to Build a Drywall Ceiling

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Douglas Hammer - A Best wholesaler

The hammer is a basic tool that is ordinarily used by many professions. They are valuable especially if you want to deliver impact to an object. They are commonly used for driving nails, forging metal and for fitting parts. There is a variety of designs meant to be used for definite purposes. Their usual features comprise a cope and a head. It is one of the oldest tools used in building structures.

One of the fellowships that can be related to this tool would be the Douglas Hammer brand. This business is dedicated to providing the highest quality, maximum utility, wood handled hammers to the trade professional or the easy homeowner. They offer hammers for all kinds of carpentry. You will eye that old hammers will not compete when it comes to utility, style, ease and functionality.

Carpentry Framing

The Douglas Brand uses the newest patented technology of H2It also known as Head-Handle Interface Technology. This is exclusive for the Douglas brand. H2It technology reduces vibration by uniting the natural vibration of the wood with the compel of the steel.

One of their best sellers would be the Douglas 23oz framing hammer. It is a polished steel alloy shank that slides into a 16 inch slotted hickory handle. Aside from stiffness and strength, the valuable edges of the shank protect the wood from faulty strikes that is the biggest factor to broken handles. The ergonomic found strives for revising to old hammers.

The cope shape of the hammer that Douglas refers to as a Crossover found is predicted to deliver the best functions of both level handles and axe style curved handles. It also has the property of a magnetized nail set to hold the nail in place before you begin. There is also a side nail pull and a side assault surface. The back-end of the head of the hammer boasts a rip claw that's sharp enough to tear down blocks and dig out nails.

The Douglas line does not come cheap. Expect to pay or more which is cheap since they have a warranty for two years. You may buy them from hardware market and online stores.

Douglas Hammer - A Best wholesaler

The hammer is a basic tool that is ordinarily used by many professions. They are valuable especially if you want to deliver impact to an object. They are commonly used for driving nails, forging metal and for fitting parts. There is a variety of designs meant to be used for definite purposes. Their usual features comprise a cope and a head. It is one of the oldest tools used in building structures.

One of the fellowships that can be related to this tool would be the Douglas Hammer brand. This business is dedicated to providing the highest quality, maximum utility, wood handled hammers to the trade professional or the easy homeowner. They offer hammers for all kinds of carpentry. You will eye that old hammers will not compete when it comes to utility, style, ease and functionality.

Carpentry Framing

The Douglas Brand uses the newest patented technology of H2It also known as Head-Handle Interface Technology. This is exclusive for the Douglas brand. H2It technology reduces vibration by uniting the natural vibration of the wood with the compel of the steel.

One of their best sellers would be the Douglas 23oz framing hammer. It is a polished steel alloy shank that slides into a 16 inch slotted hickory handle. Aside from stiffness and strength, the valuable edges of the shank protect the wood from faulty strikes that is the biggest factor to broken handles. The ergonomic found strives for revising to old hammers.

The cope shape of the hammer that Douglas refers to as a Crossover found is predicted to deliver the best functions of both level handles and axe style curved handles. It also has the property of a magnetized nail set to hold the nail in place before you begin. There is also a side nail pull and a side assault surface. The back-end of the head of the hammer boasts a rip claw that's sharp enough to tear down blocks and dig out nails.

The Douglas line does not come cheap. Expect to pay or more which is cheap since they have a warranty for two years. You may buy them from hardware market and online stores.

Douglas Hammer - A Best wholesaler

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Homebuilding: Laying Tongue and Groove Plywood

You have just terminated framing the first floor deck for a brand new
home and your ready to start putting down the 3/4" tongue and
groove plywood. If you framed it well and got your 16" centers
laid out right, the process should go plane as silk. The key to
success is in the framing of the joists.

The first step in laying plywood over the floor joists is to snap
a chalk line. This gives you a level line to follow. I all the time
snap this line at 48 1/4" in off the edge of the rim joist. This
ensures that in the course of premise the plywood (which is
48" wide) will not hang over the edge of the rim joist. It
doesn't matter either you start in the front or back of the
house.
For best results, start where you have the longest run without a
jog in or out in the foundation.

Carpentry Framing

After you have snapped your line, determine which joist the first
sheet of plywood will break. If the joists where laid out 16"
o.c. (on center) from the end of the building, the edge of the
plywood would split the joist at 8 feet. Sometimes the roof
layout determines the floor joist layout. This is regularly the
case when the roof is a hip roof. In this instance start with the
joist that will allow the plywood to cover all the joists, even
if it hangs over the edge of the first joist. This will be cut
off later.

After you have carefully where to start, apply construction
adhesive to the top edge of the joists. Apply no more than 48"
the width of the plywood. Lay the first sheet in the glue with
the groove edge on the chalk line. Holding the sheet to the line,
nail the foremost edge of the plywood to the rim joist so it
splits the joist. You'll be exterior 3/4 of an inch of the joist
with 3/4" exposed. Still Holding the plywood to the chalk line,
put a nail in the rim joist at the first joist.
Now put nails in the rim joist where the floor joists are nailed
into it. When nailing off the field these nails can be used as a
guide to find the joists.

Now the groove edge can be nailed. On the foremost edge, move the
joist so the edge of the plywood splits the joist. Once you have
the joist where you want it, nail the plywood to it. Now taking
your tape measure, hook the foremost edge of the joist you just
nailed, and pull it along the edge of the plywood. Mark 16"
centers on the plywood and pull the foremost edge of the joists to
this mark and nail them. This will help keep the joists in line
and will help make sure hereafter course of plywood break on 16"
centers no matter which joist you start with.

Glue up the joists for the next sheet. Butt the next sheet to the
one previously installed, development sure to hold it to the chalk
line and nail the groove edge corner. Nail it to the rim joist
just like the first sheet. Once again move the joist so the
plywood splits it. Hook that joist with your tape, mark centers
and move the joists to the lines. Keep laying the plywood in this
fashion to the other end of the building.

Your now ready for the next course of plywood. If I've started
with a full 96" sheet on my first course, I like to start my
second row with a 48" piece. This works great if the construction
length is in increments of 4 feet (24',28',32',36' etc.). This
isn't all the time the case. If the construction is an odd distance you can
usually use your ending cutoff to start the next course. Stagger
the joints a minimum of 32" apart.

Start the next course by gluing the joists. Do not apply the glue
more than 4' beyond the first course of plywood. Stand the sheet
on its tongue edge next to the groove edge of the sheet you are
standing on. Make sure its butt edge is lined up on the joist it
is breaking on and let it fall into the glue. As it hits the
glued up joists, step on it and try to pull it in with your foot.
Only under the right conditions will the tongue go fully
into the groove. Sometimes the sheet can be jumped into the
groove. This involves standing on the sheet and jump with force
towards the the sheets in the former row. In most cases it
takes a sledgehammer and a 4' to 6' 2x4 beater block to persuade
the sheets together. The block keeps the groove edge from getting
damaged by the sledge. This is a two someone operation. One stands
on the tongue edge of the plywood to guide the sheet into the
groove while the swings the sledgehammer. This will be the
process for the rest of the installation.

Once the piece is in place, nail off the tongue edge, development sure
the foremost edge is breaking on a joist. Move the joist so the
groove edge breaks on the joist. Pull 16" centers from that
joist, mark the plywood, move the joists if necessary, and nail
them off.

To keep the joists at the ends of the construction straight, do not
glue or nail them. Ideally we'd like the plywood to be hanging
over the ends. After all the plywood is in place, snap a line
from one corner to the other and cut this over hanging plywood
off. Move this joist to the cut edge to make it level and nail
it off.

Tips:

-Field can be nailed as you go (recommended to set sheet in
glue)
or after all plywood is in place.

-do not glue more than 4' out from sheet. Keeps glue off your
tape
when you pull centers.

-When nailing groove edge, nail at least 2" from edge to keep
from
collapsing groove.

-Before installing plywood, check for damaged grooves and
tongues.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Laying Tongue and Groove Plywood

You have just terminated framing the first floor deck for a brand new
home and your ready to start putting down the 3/4" tongue and
groove plywood. If you framed it well and got your 16" centers
laid out right, the process should go plane as silk. The key to
success is in the framing of the joists.

The first step in laying plywood over the floor joists is to snap
a chalk line. This gives you a level line to follow. I all the time
snap this line at 48 1/4" in off the edge of the rim joist. This
ensures that in the course of premise the plywood (which is
48" wide) will not hang over the edge of the rim joist. It
doesn't matter either you start in the front or back of the
house.
For best results, start where you have the longest run without a
jog in or out in the foundation.

Carpentry Framing

After you have snapped your line, determine which joist the first
sheet of plywood will break. If the joists where laid out 16"
o.c. (on center) from the end of the building, the edge of the
plywood would split the joist at 8 feet. Sometimes the roof
layout determines the floor joist layout. This is regularly the
case when the roof is a hip roof. In this instance start with the
joist that will allow the plywood to cover all the joists, even
if it hangs over the edge of the first joist. This will be cut
off later.

After you have carefully where to start, apply construction
adhesive to the top edge of the joists. Apply no more than 48"
the width of the plywood. Lay the first sheet in the glue with
the groove edge on the chalk line. Holding the sheet to the line,
nail the foremost edge of the plywood to the rim joist so it
splits the joist. You'll be exterior 3/4 of an inch of the joist
with 3/4" exposed. Still Holding the plywood to the chalk line,
put a nail in the rim joist at the first joist.
Now put nails in the rim joist where the floor joists are nailed
into it. When nailing off the field these nails can be used as a
guide to find the joists.

Now the groove edge can be nailed. On the foremost edge, move the
joist so the edge of the plywood splits the joist. Once you have
the joist where you want it, nail the plywood to it. Now taking
your tape measure, hook the foremost edge of the joist you just
nailed, and pull it along the edge of the plywood. Mark 16"
centers on the plywood and pull the foremost edge of the joists to
this mark and nail them. This will help keep the joists in line
and will help make sure hereafter course of plywood break on 16"
centers no matter which joist you start with.

Glue up the joists for the next sheet. Butt the next sheet to the
one previously installed, development sure to hold it to the chalk
line and nail the groove edge corner. Nail it to the rim joist
just like the first sheet. Once again move the joist so the
plywood splits it. Hook that joist with your tape, mark centers
and move the joists to the lines. Keep laying the plywood in this
fashion to the other end of the building.

Your now ready for the next course of plywood. If I've started
with a full 96" sheet on my first course, I like to start my
second row with a 48" piece. This works great if the construction
length is in increments of 4 feet (24',28',32',36' etc.). This
isn't all the time the case. If the construction is an odd distance you can
usually use your ending cutoff to start the next course. Stagger
the joints a minimum of 32" apart.

Start the next course by gluing the joists. Do not apply the glue
more than 4' beyond the first course of plywood. Stand the sheet
on its tongue edge next to the groove edge of the sheet you are
standing on. Make sure its butt edge is lined up on the joist it
is breaking on and let it fall into the glue. As it hits the
glued up joists, step on it and try to pull it in with your foot.
Only under the right conditions will the tongue go fully
into the groove. Sometimes the sheet can be jumped into the
groove. This involves standing on the sheet and jump with force
towards the the sheets in the former row. In most cases it
takes a sledgehammer and a 4' to 6' 2x4 beater block to persuade
the sheets together. The block keeps the groove edge from getting
damaged by the sledge. This is a two someone operation. One stands
on the tongue edge of the plywood to guide the sheet into the
groove while the swings the sledgehammer. This will be the
process for the rest of the installation.

Once the piece is in place, nail off the tongue edge, development sure
the foremost edge is breaking on a joist. Move the joist so the
groove edge breaks on the joist. Pull 16" centers from that
joist, mark the plywood, move the joists if necessary, and nail
them off.

To keep the joists at the ends of the construction straight, do not
glue or nail them. Ideally we'd like the plywood to be hanging
over the ends. After all the plywood is in place, snap a line
from one corner to the other and cut this over hanging plywood
off. Move this joist to the cut edge to make it level and nail
it off.

Tips:

-Field can be nailed as you go (recommended to set sheet in
glue)
or after all plywood is in place.

-do not glue more than 4' out from sheet. Keeps glue off your
tape
when you pull centers.

-When nailing groove edge, nail at least 2" from edge to keep
from
collapsing groove.

-Before installing plywood, check for damaged grooves and
tongues.

Mike Merisko (c) 2006

http://www.sawkerfs.com

Homebuilding: Laying Tongue and Groove Plywood

Monday, August 8, 2011

Installing An exterior Door

Installing an outside door is one of the easiest of all door installations. Either the door is installed in new building or in a transfer situation, there are a few factors that make this an easy task.

The biggest guess this is a simple execution is that these doors come prehung. What this means is the door is already hung in its jamb. The hinges are mortised into the door and jamb and screwed in place. The door is held in position by the hinge pins, leaving the perfect enumerate colse to the door and the jambs top and sides. The holes are also bored for the lockset and if necessary, for the deadbolt too. outside doors come in wood, fiberglass, and the most popular, steel. The two sizes are ordinarily used for outside doors are 32" and 36". With the sizes of todays furniture and appliances the smart option is the 36" door. The approved height for a door is 6'8" but taller ones can be special ordered.

Carpentry Framing

The outside trim comes nailed to the jamb. This trim, called brickmoulding, is mitred and already installed, rescue the installer(s) another step. These doors also have an aluminum threshold already attached to the legs of the jambs. All these things make the door and jamb one cohesive unit.

The approved jamb size is 4 and 1/2 inches wide. With the examine for a higher insulation R value in outside walls, 2x6 framing is being used more frequently. Jambs to fit these walls, 6 1/2 inches, are becoming more common. Jamb widths can be made to order for whatever a projects needs are and would cost more.

To setup an outside door, first check to see if the rough chance is correct. The width of the chance should be 2" wider than the door itself (38" for a 36" door, 34" for a 32" door). For a rough chance height 83" will suffice for most door manufacturers. Also check to see if the framing and floor is reasonably plumb.

Door factory is easier with 2 people but can be done alone. Put the door in the chance from the outside. If you are working alone, tack the door to the wall straight through the brickmoulding, not driving the nails home. I like to use galvenized ring shank splitless nails that are used for cedar siding. They don't split the wood and the smaller heads are not as confident to the eye. The ring shank feature gives them great keeping power.

With the door tacked in the opening, go to the inside of the door and check the reveals colse to the door. There should be about an eighth of an inch all colse to the door. Shim the jambs of the door so the reveals are right. Check the door jamb on the hinge side for plumb. If it is not plumb, then the floor is out of level. One jamb leg or the other will need to be shimmed so the threshold is level. Now readjust the reveals by curious the door and jambs sideways in the chance to a point where the reveals are right. Once the door and jamb are in position, shim the jamb at each hinge and at the strike, top and bottom on the attack side. Nail the shims in place by nailing straight through the jamb, straight through the shims and into the framing. Check the door swing to see if it opens and closes properly. If all is well, go outside and nail straight through the brickmould using the splitless nails to nail the door frame to the house.

Most door manufacturers furnish long screws that replace some of the shorter screws in the hinges on the jamb. The top hinge is the most foremost place to use one or two of these screws.
These screws go straight through the jamb and into the framing and keep the door from sagging over time.

Most doors come with an adjustable threshold. This may have to be adjusted up or down to generate an airtight seal.

With the door securely in the opening, it is ready for door hardware installation.

Mike Merisko (c) 2007

Installing An exterior Door

Installing an outside door is one of the easiest of all door installations. Either the door is installed in new building or in a transfer situation, there are a few factors that make this an easy task.

The biggest guess this is a simple execution is that these doors come prehung. What this means is the door is already hung in its jamb. The hinges are mortised into the door and jamb and screwed in place. The door is held in position by the hinge pins, leaving the perfect enumerate colse to the door and the jambs top and sides. The holes are also bored for the lockset and if necessary, for the deadbolt too. outside doors come in wood, fiberglass, and the most popular, steel. The two sizes are ordinarily used for outside doors are 32" and 36". With the sizes of todays furniture and appliances the smart option is the 36" door. The approved height for a door is 6'8" but taller ones can be special ordered.

Carpentry Framing

The outside trim comes nailed to the jamb. This trim, called brickmoulding, is mitred and already installed, rescue the installer(s) another step. These doors also have an aluminum threshold already attached to the legs of the jambs. All these things make the door and jamb one cohesive unit.

The approved jamb size is 4 and 1/2 inches wide. With the examine for a higher insulation R value in outside walls, 2x6 framing is being used more frequently. Jambs to fit these walls, 6 1/2 inches, are becoming more common. Jamb widths can be made to order for whatever a projects needs are and would cost more.

To setup an outside door, first check to see if the rough chance is correct. The width of the chance should be 2" wider than the door itself (38" for a 36" door, 34" for a 32" door). For a rough chance height 83" will suffice for most door manufacturers. Also check to see if the framing and floor is reasonably plumb.

Door factory is easier with 2 people but can be done alone. Put the door in the chance from the outside. If you are working alone, tack the door to the wall straight through the brickmoulding, not driving the nails home. I like to use galvenized ring shank splitless nails that are used for cedar siding. They don't split the wood and the smaller heads are not as confident to the eye. The ring shank feature gives them great keeping power.

With the door tacked in the opening, go to the inside of the door and check the reveals colse to the door. There should be about an eighth of an inch all colse to the door. Shim the jambs of the door so the reveals are right. Check the door jamb on the hinge side for plumb. If it is not plumb, then the floor is out of level. One jamb leg or the other will need to be shimmed so the threshold is level. Now readjust the reveals by curious the door and jambs sideways in the chance to a point where the reveals are right. Once the door and jamb are in position, shim the jamb at each hinge and at the strike, top and bottom on the attack side. Nail the shims in place by nailing straight through the jamb, straight through the shims and into the framing. Check the door swing to see if it opens and closes properly. If all is well, go outside and nail straight through the brickmould using the splitless nails to nail the door frame to the house.

Most door manufacturers furnish long screws that replace some of the shorter screws in the hinges on the jamb. The top hinge is the most foremost place to use one or two of these screws.
These screws go straight through the jamb and into the framing and keep the door from sagging over time.

Most doors come with an adjustable threshold. This may have to be adjusted up or down to generate an airtight seal.

With the door securely in the opening, it is ready for door hardware installation.

Mike Merisko (c) 2007

Installing An exterior Door

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Getting A New vocation With Carpenter Training

A carpenter is a very skilled craftsman who creates objects out of wood. The projects that a carpenter can work on range from remodelling homes, to production furniture. You can find a number of dissimilar types of carpenters and the type you hire would depend on the scope of the scheme in hand.

There are rough carpenters who specialize in roofing, framing and structural work and they are commonly hired to work on home building and remodelling. They may also be hired to work on additions that are being made to buildings. This work is not artistic like other forms of carpentry as there are no fine details or exact finishing edges required. When hiring a rough carpenter there are some things that you should look for in order for a good potential job to be done. The carpenter should be experienced in their trade and should be able to furnish references of old work that they have carried out. It is prominent in some cases that the private has knowledge of structural security and local building codes. They must comply with the requirements of your area. There are many rough work carpenters colse to who will furnish a potential product.

Carpentry Framing

Another kind of carpenter is a end carpenter. This private has an eye for exact finishes and joints and will artistically craft fine wood pieces. These carpenters are more costly to hire but this is due to the fact that they are very skilled and tend to have a lot of sense and therefore you will get a potential job for the money that you have paid. You will need to look at old work of the carpenter and spend time discussing the ideas that you have so you get the goods that you want. A end carpenter can also be used for home remodelling and other building work if the work that is needed is intricate and requires detail and artistic flair.

The more jobs that a carpenter has, the more skilled they will be at their job. Therefore it is prominent to ask to see references of jobs in the past in order to make sure they will do a good job of your product. If the job is small and you do not want to pay a lot of money then an inexpensive carpenter will do a good job. However, if the scheme is large and prominent then it will be an benefit to spend more money and hire a more experienced and skilled workman. This will ensure a potential goods and, although will cost more, will save disappointment when the job is complete.

When hiring an electrician, make sure that you get a written contract detailed with specifications of the work, requirements and any extra considerations to be made. The total price of the scheme should also be included in the contract along with payment procedures that are to take place. Although the carpenter will ask for a down payment so materials can be obtained, the final payment will not be required until after the scheme has been completed. A warranty should also be included and if not then you should ask for one so that you can be sure that any tweaking or repairs that are essential in the time to come will be completed by the carpenter within the scope of the work.

Getting A New vocation With Carpenter Training

A carpenter is a very skilled craftsman who creates objects out of wood. The projects that a carpenter can work on range from remodelling homes, to production furniture. You can find a number of dissimilar types of carpenters and the type you hire would depend on the scope of the scheme in hand.

There are rough carpenters who specialize in roofing, framing and structural work and they are commonly hired to work on home building and remodelling. They may also be hired to work on additions that are being made to buildings. This work is not artistic like other forms of carpentry as there are no fine details or exact finishing edges required. When hiring a rough carpenter there are some things that you should look for in order for a good potential job to be done. The carpenter should be experienced in their trade and should be able to furnish references of old work that they have carried out. It is prominent in some cases that the private has knowledge of structural security and local building codes. They must comply with the requirements of your area. There are many rough work carpenters colse to who will furnish a potential product.

Carpentry Framing

Another kind of carpenter is a end carpenter. This private has an eye for exact finishes and joints and will artistically craft fine wood pieces. These carpenters are more costly to hire but this is due to the fact that they are very skilled and tend to have a lot of sense and therefore you will get a potential job for the money that you have paid. You will need to look at old work of the carpenter and spend time discussing the ideas that you have so you get the goods that you want. A end carpenter can also be used for home remodelling and other building work if the work that is needed is intricate and requires detail and artistic flair.

The more jobs that a carpenter has, the more skilled they will be at their job. Therefore it is prominent to ask to see references of jobs in the past in order to make sure they will do a good job of your product. If the job is small and you do not want to pay a lot of money then an inexpensive carpenter will do a good job. However, if the scheme is large and prominent then it will be an benefit to spend more money and hire a more experienced and skilled workman. This will ensure a potential goods and, although will cost more, will save disappointment when the job is complete.

When hiring an electrician, make sure that you get a written contract detailed with specifications of the work, requirements and any extra considerations to be made. The total price of the scheme should also be included in the contract along with payment procedures that are to take place. Although the carpenter will ask for a down payment so materials can be obtained, the final payment will not be required until after the scheme has been completed. A warranty should also be included and if not then you should ask for one so that you can be sure that any tweaking or repairs that are essential in the time to come will be completed by the carpenter within the scope of the work.

Getting A New vocation With Carpenter Training

Saturday, August 6, 2011

Home Remodeling Contractors Can Help Sell a Home

What can home remodeling contractors help you to accomplish?

The housing store in Portland is not what it used to be. While it is not as bad as some other cities further south or east it is still a challenge to sell a home here. The store is loaded with homes for sale and currently there are more sellers than there are buyers.

Carpentry Framing

It is a far cry from the way it used to be in the earlier part of this decade when homes would be bought, at close to full price without much negotiation, within a matter of weeks. That all started to turn by the end of 2007 and literally took a turn in 2008 with the housing store meltdown.

If you are trying to sell your home you may want to reconsider hiring a local remodeling contractor who works in the Portland, Or area.

These population have the task of whether production your home look a lot more aesthetically pleasing or creating the home of your dreams. They can make interior improvements, some large and some small, that will turn the whole look and feel of your residence.

You tell your remodeler what you want and he/she makes it happen. It could be a new bathroom, kitchen, basement, or you want to spruce up your interior by dry walling the walls.

A good Portland remodeler knows the current trends and is able to generate an interior theme based on the homeowner's budget. A contractor in this singular niche must be skilled at many distinct types of building trades. Carpentry, laying tile, electrical, painting, plumbing, and framing are all some of the skills a good remodeling contractor must at least know something about.

Keep in mind that they do not have to be experts on every home correction niche but they must know a exiguous about a lot of things.

For literally complicated projects, such as building a new room, your contractor may have to sub-contract out discrete jobs.

Spending any thousand dollars on some basic remodeling can literally heighten the value of your home. With the volume of homes currently on the store buyers are seeing for something different.

You are going to have to impress them to set your place apart from the others. Gone are the days when any home would sell for near top dollar. One literally has to work hard to sell his real estate and getting the home remodeled is the best area to start.

Take a look at your kitchen, bathroom, wallpaper, and living room. Could something distinct be added? Could you use new curtains? What about simple things like faucets and light fixtures. Could they be changed to add a distinct feel to your house? These are all questions you should ask the remodeling enterprise about and they should be able to tell you what you can have done within your budget.

To get a feel about what you may maybe want start by taking a look at some magazines and brochures.

Write down what you like and do not like. If you want to get an exact look nearly copying what you see buy the magazine and show it to the contractor. Be specific about what you want if you know you are picky someone and are seeing for a spoton theme.

The right home remodeling contractor can turn a bland house into a rockin' one.

Home Remodeling Contractors Can Help Sell a Home

What can home remodeling contractors help you to accomplish?

The housing store in Portland is not what it used to be. While it is not as bad as some other cities further south or east it is still a challenge to sell a home here. The store is loaded with homes for sale and currently there are more sellers than there are buyers.

Carpentry Framing

It is a far cry from the way it used to be in the earlier part of this decade when homes would be bought, at close to full price without much negotiation, within a matter of weeks. That all started to turn by the end of 2007 and literally took a turn in 2008 with the housing store meltdown.

If you are trying to sell your home you may want to reconsider hiring a local remodeling contractor who works in the Portland, Or area.

These population have the task of whether production your home look a lot more aesthetically pleasing or creating the home of your dreams. They can make interior improvements, some large and some small, that will turn the whole look and feel of your residence.

You tell your remodeler what you want and he/she makes it happen. It could be a new bathroom, kitchen, basement, or you want to spruce up your interior by dry walling the walls.

A good Portland remodeler knows the current trends and is able to generate an interior theme based on the homeowner's budget. A contractor in this singular niche must be skilled at many distinct types of building trades. Carpentry, laying tile, electrical, painting, plumbing, and framing are all some of the skills a good remodeling contractor must at least know something about.

Keep in mind that they do not have to be experts on every home correction niche but they must know a exiguous about a lot of things.

For literally complicated projects, such as building a new room, your contractor may have to sub-contract out discrete jobs.

Spending any thousand dollars on some basic remodeling can literally heighten the value of your home. With the volume of homes currently on the store buyers are seeing for something different.

You are going to have to impress them to set your place apart from the others. Gone are the days when any home would sell for near top dollar. One literally has to work hard to sell his real estate and getting the home remodeled is the best area to start.

Take a look at your kitchen, bathroom, wallpaper, and living room. Could something distinct be added? Could you use new curtains? What about simple things like faucets and light fixtures. Could they be changed to add a distinct feel to your house? These are all questions you should ask the remodeling enterprise about and they should be able to tell you what you can have done within your budget.

To get a feel about what you may maybe want start by taking a look at some magazines and brochures.

Write down what you like and do not like. If you want to get an exact look nearly copying what you see buy the magazine and show it to the contractor. Be specific about what you want if you know you are picky someone and are seeing for a spoton theme.

The right home remodeling contractor can turn a bland house into a rockin' one.

Home Remodeling Contractors Can Help Sell a Home

Thursday, August 4, 2011

take off Interior Walls Safely and Efficiently Without Wrecking the House

A lot of people's first idea in undertaking a remodeling project is to start with tearing down walls. That's an ambitious (if not impulsive) beginning to a project, with focused performance for one's built-up energy, but it's a decision that needs to be well thought about and fully realized before any actual work can safely begin. Walls are built for any reasons, whether as bearing walls designed to hold up a house and transfer loads from above, or as partitions designed to supply privacy or define space. Bearing walls and partitions both supply safe places to run electrical wiring and mount switches, fixtures, and outlets. Walls also supply safe places to run plumbing water supply lines, drains and vents, and heat ducts and registers. An prominent observation is what floor face will fill the void left by discharge of the wall's base moldings and base plate.

People's lifestyles today differ greatly from what was tasteless 30-75 years ago. Larger open areas for attractive and light are much preferred over smaller, hidden spaces, so the underlying reasons for removing walls in older homes are good. But, you've got to first assess what functions a wall serves before deciding whether it's possible to safely remove it entirely or if some kind of structural transfer will be necessary. So, before thoughtless strike with sledge hammers, jack hammers, chain saws, pry bars and backhoes, sniff out some telltale signs of maybe why the wall was built in the first place. Then the fun of dismantling, not demolition, can begin. If you want to make a big mess and cause a lot of dust and needless cleanup work, go ahead, use a sledge hammer and chain saw, but to be most safe and efficient, consequent tips in this guide.

Carpentry Framing

It's prominent to know if a wall is bearing weight to know what the resulting discharge will halt like. Bearing walls carry roof, ceiling, and floor loads. They often run perpendicular to floor and ceiling joists, but there are exceptions. Spotting a bearing wall isn't all the time easy, it may be thrifty or significant to hire an engineer, who also would be able to specify beam sizing and create to replace the bearing wall. That beam may be installed hidden within the done ceiling in line with the floor joists above, or installed hidden in an attic from above with joists hung below with mechanical fasteners. Installed below the joists, the beam can be trimmed as an architectural detail. Cost and practicality will sway create decision.

Before removing the framing of a bearing wall, build a temporary wall to pick up the load. Consider the bearing wall may need reserve on both sides when joists lap. Consider the weight bearing capacity of the underlying floor joists. Additional bracing below may be necessary. Use doubled 2x8 top and base plates to great distribute the load path without knowing ceiling or floor joist layout. The plates could be cushioned with towels to minimize possible damage to the ceiling and floor finishes. Temporarily fasten top plates to ceiling with a join of screws. Cut the temporary brace studs slightly longer to take some weight off the bearing wall and compress towel cushion. Setup them on 16 inch centers with grabber screws to make adjustments and discharge easier. Use of a hydraulic jack may help, but be right not to raise it excessively.

Walls are built in an organized way, and that's the best way to take them down. Wall studs and plates go up first, and they should be taken down last. Trim moldings, casing and base, go in last, and should come off first. Sheetrock or even lath and plaster can be removed in large sections to make cleanup easier. Resolve when to remove floor coverings. maybe rescue vinyl flooring until after lath and plaster discharge will make sweeping up easier and keep debris from falling straight through the subfloor or into the basement. Existing carpeting may cushion and protect underlying hardwood flooring.

Chances are good that electrical wiring is in the wall, even given absence of the inevitable indicators of switches and outlets. Check top plates from the attic and lowest plates from below for wiring penetrations and turn off the affected power circuits. It may be thrifty to hire an experienced licensed and insured electrician to remove or reroute wiring safely.

Plumbing lines may be in the wall. The location of an adjoining, above or below kitchen and bathroom fixtures may indicate approximate plumbing water supply lines or drain and vent lines locations. Turn off the closest water supply valves. It may be thrifty to hire an experienced licensed and insured plumber to remove or reroute plumbing lines safely. Consider heat ducting runs and register locations for future use.

Set up for the wall discharge with appropriate drop cloths. Tape plastic sheets to door openings to sell out opportunity of dust migration. Put an galvanic fan in a window to supply a inevitable airflow out of the room. Wear a dust mask and use eye protection.

Dismantle the wall thought about for safe and sufficient debris removal. Start with casing and base. Run a utility knife straight through the molding edges to break the caulk seams. thought about remove the molding with a pry bar in one piece, especially if the molding is obsolete and must be reused.

A reciprocating saw is the remodeler's best discharge tool. Use of one can become a skill, even a sculptural ar tform. Sheetrock, gyplath, and lath and plaster can be most of course removed by beginning with saw cuts in ceiling and wall corners. Gyplath and lath and plaster usually have expanded metal lath reinforcement in these junctions that can best be cut with a toothless carborundum blade. Large sections of sheetrock can be pried off, especially if screws are removed. Break taped joints with a utility knife. Cut gyplath into sections for removal, as expanded metal lath may again be used as reinforcement at gypboard joints. Lath and plaster is hard to remove in large pieces, you'll just have to be patient. Scraping plaster off the lath may be an sufficient technique to break off the plaster keys. Lath may be thought about pried off studs to sell out personel nail removal.

Before cutting wall studs framing nails with the recipro saw, notch cutouts around wiring and plumbing. A chisel may be helpful to split plates. Remember, only one end of a stud needs to be cut free from nails!
With some planning and care, wall discharge can be done safely and efficiently. If this process seems daunting, if you feel you need only do what you do best to make an income, hire an experienced licensed and insured normal Contractor. Soon, you'll have a more modern, open living space to enjoy. See my website, http://davidtaylorremodeling.com. For more remodeling tips.

take off Interior Walls Safely and Efficiently Without Wrecking the House

A lot of people's first idea in undertaking a remodeling project is to start with tearing down walls. That's an ambitious (if not impulsive) beginning to a project, with focused performance for one's built-up energy, but it's a decision that needs to be well thought about and fully realized before any actual work can safely begin. Walls are built for any reasons, whether as bearing walls designed to hold up a house and transfer loads from above, or as partitions designed to supply privacy or define space. Bearing walls and partitions both supply safe places to run electrical wiring and mount switches, fixtures, and outlets. Walls also supply safe places to run plumbing water supply lines, drains and vents, and heat ducts and registers. An prominent observation is what floor face will fill the void left by discharge of the wall's base moldings and base plate.

People's lifestyles today differ greatly from what was tasteless 30-75 years ago. Larger open areas for attractive and light are much preferred over smaller, hidden spaces, so the underlying reasons for removing walls in older homes are good. But, you've got to first assess what functions a wall serves before deciding whether it's possible to safely remove it entirely or if some kind of structural transfer will be necessary. So, before thoughtless strike with sledge hammers, jack hammers, chain saws, pry bars and backhoes, sniff out some telltale signs of maybe why the wall was built in the first place. Then the fun of dismantling, not demolition, can begin. If you want to make a big mess and cause a lot of dust and needless cleanup work, go ahead, use a sledge hammer and chain saw, but to be most safe and efficient, consequent tips in this guide.

Carpentry Framing

It's prominent to know if a wall is bearing weight to know what the resulting discharge will halt like. Bearing walls carry roof, ceiling, and floor loads. They often run perpendicular to floor and ceiling joists, but there are exceptions. Spotting a bearing wall isn't all the time easy, it may be thrifty or significant to hire an engineer, who also would be able to specify beam sizing and create to replace the bearing wall. That beam may be installed hidden within the done ceiling in line with the floor joists above, or installed hidden in an attic from above with joists hung below with mechanical fasteners. Installed below the joists, the beam can be trimmed as an architectural detail. Cost and practicality will sway create decision.

Before removing the framing of a bearing wall, build a temporary wall to pick up the load. Consider the bearing wall may need reserve on both sides when joists lap. Consider the weight bearing capacity of the underlying floor joists. Additional bracing below may be necessary. Use doubled 2x8 top and base plates to great distribute the load path without knowing ceiling or floor joist layout. The plates could be cushioned with towels to minimize possible damage to the ceiling and floor finishes. Temporarily fasten top plates to ceiling with a join of screws. Cut the temporary brace studs slightly longer to take some weight off the bearing wall and compress towel cushion. Setup them on 16 inch centers with grabber screws to make adjustments and discharge easier. Use of a hydraulic jack may help, but be right not to raise it excessively.

Walls are built in an organized way, and that's the best way to take them down. Wall studs and plates go up first, and they should be taken down last. Trim moldings, casing and base, go in last, and should come off first. Sheetrock or even lath and plaster can be removed in large sections to make cleanup easier. Resolve when to remove floor coverings. maybe rescue vinyl flooring until after lath and plaster discharge will make sweeping up easier and keep debris from falling straight through the subfloor or into the basement. Existing carpeting may cushion and protect underlying hardwood flooring.

Chances are good that electrical wiring is in the wall, even given absence of the inevitable indicators of switches and outlets. Check top plates from the attic and lowest plates from below for wiring penetrations and turn off the affected power circuits. It may be thrifty to hire an experienced licensed and insured electrician to remove or reroute wiring safely.

Plumbing lines may be in the wall. The location of an adjoining, above or below kitchen and bathroom fixtures may indicate approximate plumbing water supply lines or drain and vent lines locations. Turn off the closest water supply valves. It may be thrifty to hire an experienced licensed and insured plumber to remove or reroute plumbing lines safely. Consider heat ducting runs and register locations for future use.

Set up for the wall discharge with appropriate drop cloths. Tape plastic sheets to door openings to sell out opportunity of dust migration. Put an galvanic fan in a window to supply a inevitable airflow out of the room. Wear a dust mask and use eye protection.

Dismantle the wall thought about for safe and sufficient debris removal. Start with casing and base. Run a utility knife straight through the molding edges to break the caulk seams. thought about remove the molding with a pry bar in one piece, especially if the molding is obsolete and must be reused.

A reciprocating saw is the remodeler's best discharge tool. Use of one can become a skill, even a sculptural ar tform. Sheetrock, gyplath, and lath and plaster can be most of course removed by beginning with saw cuts in ceiling and wall corners. Gyplath and lath and plaster usually have expanded metal lath reinforcement in these junctions that can best be cut with a toothless carborundum blade. Large sections of sheetrock can be pried off, especially if screws are removed. Break taped joints with a utility knife. Cut gyplath into sections for removal, as expanded metal lath may again be used as reinforcement at gypboard joints. Lath and plaster is hard to remove in large pieces, you'll just have to be patient. Scraping plaster off the lath may be an sufficient technique to break off the plaster keys. Lath may be thought about pried off studs to sell out personel nail removal.

Before cutting wall studs framing nails with the recipro saw, notch cutouts around wiring and plumbing. A chisel may be helpful to split plates. Remember, only one end of a stud needs to be cut free from nails!
With some planning and care, wall discharge can be done safely and efficiently. If this process seems daunting, if you feel you need only do what you do best to make an income, hire an experienced licensed and insured normal Contractor. Soon, you'll have a more modern, open living space to enjoy. See my website, http://davidtaylorremodeling.com. For more remodeling tips.

take off Interior Walls Safely and Efficiently Without Wrecking the House

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Add Some Light To Your Attic With A Shed Dormer

Structurally, there are quite a few changes you can make in an attic. It's just a request of how far you have the guts to go, or more exactly, how good your carpentry is and how many friends you can press into slave labor for your attic.

Quite a few years back, dormers were all the rage for the attic. They were built to let more light into a dim attic. However, since they presented wildly difficult decorating problems for the housewife, the dormer gradually became a shed dormer.

Carpentry Framing

What's the difference? Instead of several miserable limited window dormers, the shed dormer is an prolongation to the roof area that continues almost all the way over the width of the house. In other words, you have one big dormer with several windows (or even a photograph window) sharing the same wall. Inside you get lots more light, and wind up with truly usable space in your attic.

A shed dormer for your attic is, however, a rather unabridged construction project. Unless you have the time and skill for it, you will probably be best off if you put the harder part of the job in the hands of a competent contractor. You may be able to split up the remodeling: call in a expert to tackle the actual structural work in your attic and leave the detailed interior finishing for yourself.

Structural work, if poorly done, can ensue in damage to the house, not just the attic alone. Then, too, the problem of weather enters the picture. It's very foremost to cut out the opening and close it in again as speedily as possible. Should a torrential downpour come along while your roof still has a huge hole cut in it, the results would be more than embarrassing for you and your attic.

Building Procedures

With the above qualifications out of the way, here's the step by step policy (in general) for construction a shed dormer.

1. Working from the inside, cut out and wholly remove the roof sheathing and face in the area in your attic that will be occupied by the dormer. Leave the rafters intact for the time being.

2. Attach duplicate studs (two studs nailed together side by side) at the two corners of the opening that are near the edge of the roof. The height of these timbers is the finished height of the new roof. To infer this distance, be sure to allow a minimum interior height below the finished ceiling of your attic of 7 ft. 6 in.

3. Nail a duplicate plate to the ends of the studs.

4. Frame in the rest of the studs plus any rough opening for the windows. Studs should cover not only the front area but also the triangular sides of the new dormer for your attic. 5. Add stringers. These timbers rein force the new roof and also act as a nailing face for the new ceiling in side. Stringers overhang the plate at one end by about 6-8 in. Carry the other end through the cut-out roof opening and spike each stringer (incidentally, they are whether 2x4 or 2x6 timbers) to the old rafters near the top. Use a level to make sure each stringer is perfectly horizontal.

6. Nail a 1x6 timber flat at the top of the new opening.

7. Set the rafters (2x6 timbers for this) in place alongside the stringers. One end of each rafter rests on the plate and is nailed both to the plate and to the adjacent stringer. The other nail is toenailed to the 1x6.

8. Cut out the old rafters so the roof opening is outlined only by the new timbers.

9. Add the roof sheathing using appropriate tongue-and-groove boards.

10. Sheath the front and sides of the dormer. In both cases, you'll probably use the same wood as for the roof of your attic.

11. Add the waterproof roof coating (roll roofing, shingles, etc.)

12. Put on the finished siding (clap board, shingles, etc.)

13. Fit the window frames into the rough openings in the front of the dormer.

14. The rest of the job is mostly interior finishing.

The shed dormer can be an arresting increasing to your attic.

Add Some Light To Your Attic With A Shed Dormer

Structurally, there are quite a few changes you can make in an attic. It's just a request of how far you have the guts to go, or more exactly, how good your carpentry is and how many friends you can press into slave labor for your attic.

Quite a few years back, dormers were all the rage for the attic. They were built to let more light into a dim attic. However, since they presented wildly difficult decorating problems for the housewife, the dormer gradually became a shed dormer.

Carpentry Framing

What's the difference? Instead of several miserable limited window dormers, the shed dormer is an prolongation to the roof area that continues almost all the way over the width of the house. In other words, you have one big dormer with several windows (or even a photograph window) sharing the same wall. Inside you get lots more light, and wind up with truly usable space in your attic.

A shed dormer for your attic is, however, a rather unabridged construction project. Unless you have the time and skill for it, you will probably be best off if you put the harder part of the job in the hands of a competent contractor. You may be able to split up the remodeling: call in a expert to tackle the actual structural work in your attic and leave the detailed interior finishing for yourself.

Structural work, if poorly done, can ensue in damage to the house, not just the attic alone. Then, too, the problem of weather enters the picture. It's very foremost to cut out the opening and close it in again as speedily as possible. Should a torrential downpour come along while your roof still has a huge hole cut in it, the results would be more than embarrassing for you and your attic.

Building Procedures

With the above qualifications out of the way, here's the step by step policy (in general) for construction a shed dormer.

1. Working from the inside, cut out and wholly remove the roof sheathing and face in the area in your attic that will be occupied by the dormer. Leave the rafters intact for the time being.

2. Attach duplicate studs (two studs nailed together side by side) at the two corners of the opening that are near the edge of the roof. The height of these timbers is the finished height of the new roof. To infer this distance, be sure to allow a minimum interior height below the finished ceiling of your attic of 7 ft. 6 in.

3. Nail a duplicate plate to the ends of the studs.

4. Frame in the rest of the studs plus any rough opening for the windows. Studs should cover not only the front area but also the triangular sides of the new dormer for your attic. 5. Add stringers. These timbers rein force the new roof and also act as a nailing face for the new ceiling in side. Stringers overhang the plate at one end by about 6-8 in. Carry the other end through the cut-out roof opening and spike each stringer (incidentally, they are whether 2x4 or 2x6 timbers) to the old rafters near the top. Use a level to make sure each stringer is perfectly horizontal.

6. Nail a 1x6 timber flat at the top of the new opening.

7. Set the rafters (2x6 timbers for this) in place alongside the stringers. One end of each rafter rests on the plate and is nailed both to the plate and to the adjacent stringer. The other nail is toenailed to the 1x6.

8. Cut out the old rafters so the roof opening is outlined only by the new timbers.

9. Add the roof sheathing using appropriate tongue-and-groove boards.

10. Sheath the front and sides of the dormer. In both cases, you'll probably use the same wood as for the roof of your attic.

11. Add the waterproof roof coating (roll roofing, shingles, etc.)

12. Put on the finished siding (clap board, shingles, etc.)

13. Fit the window frames into the rough openings in the front of the dormer.

14. The rest of the job is mostly interior finishing.

The shed dormer can be an arresting increasing to your attic.

Add Some Light To Your Attic With A Shed Dormer