Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Attaching Wood To Concrete

A very foremost tip is to use the right tool for each method. When you're dealing with concrete and masonry, you're obviously dealing with highly hard material. Woodworking hammers are too light and steel drill bits too soft. The concrete is also brittle. Hard sharp chips are likely to fly out as you work on it, so always wear protection goggles to safe your eyes.

Nails. Nailing wood directly to concrete is probably the simplest, quickest and cheapest method. Unfortunately, once driven, these nails may jar loose from a few hammer blows to the side of the board. So, they are good for temporary fastening.

Carpentry Framing

You'll normally find two types of extra nails at the hardware store, cut nails and hardened concrete nails. Drive nails with a 2- to 4-lb. Hammer. Actually, it's very hard to drive nails into cured (hardened) concrete, even with a 4-lb. Hammer. They work best in concrete that's only cured for a few days.

Nails can be quite effective in mortar joints, however. Mortar is softer than either the concrete block or brick, and it holds nails fairly well. For best results, drive them right along the joint edge. And here's a expert tip: for improved holding power, run a bead of glue along the backside of your wood before nailing it up.

Predrilled Fasteners. There is a house of fasteners that can be driven into a predrilled hole. These not only fasten wood to concrete, but will fasten just about anything else to concrete as well.

They setup easily, simply drill through the wood and into the concrete and drive the fastener.

Drilling the hole is the only difficult part. Use a carbide tip bit. Because these holes are relatively small, your proper 1/4-inch or 3/8 inch power drill can do an adequate job, although each hole may take several minutes to bore. A hammer drill, however, will drill your hole in a matter of seconds. A hammer drill is expensive, but they can be rented. If you have a lot of holes to drill, they'll save a lot of time.

It's a good idea to glue your wood to the concrete or masonry with this law as well, especially when using screws. Once screws are jarred loose, they may not retighten.

Expansion Fasteners. These fasteners are simple, effective and can carry a heavy load. They may be retightened should they be jarred loose.

Because they need a larger hole, you precisely need a hammer drill to bore the concrete. If you can't buy, borrow or rent one, try boring a 1/8 inch hole first with a carbide bit. Then use progressively larger carbide bits until you reach the allowable size.

Buy these fasteners long adequate to wedge into the concrete as deep as the wood is thick. Drill your hole an extra 1/4 inch deep, since the bolt draws back slightly when tightened.

Power Fasteners. These are highly fast, suited and dangerous. They are primarily expert tools which any untrained homeowner should steer clear of until they fully comprehension the protection precautions. With power fasteners you can speedily nail into just about any concrete or masonry surface. Both the air and the power-actuated systems drive hardened nails through the wood and solidly into the concrete in one shot. Flying metal, wood or concrete are certain hazards, so eye protection is essential.

Glue. Over the past ten years building adhesives have improved and become more specialized. You can securely glue just about anything to a wall now. Since glued wood must be held tightly in place until the glue sets, it's handy to use an adhesive with someone else fastening law for mutual reinforcement; the glue dampens the vibration and jarring that may weaken the fasteners, and the fasteners hold the wood tightly until the glue sets.

Proper preparation ensures a good glue bond. Be sure the wood and the concrete surfaces are clean and dry. Loose paint, face chalking or moisture will cause the bond to release. When working with a very rough surface, apply a generous bead to bridge the wider gaps in the middle of the wood and concrete.

Attaching Wood To Concrete

A very foremost tip is to use the right tool for each method. When you're dealing with concrete and masonry, you're obviously dealing with highly hard material. Woodworking hammers are too light and steel drill bits too soft. The concrete is also brittle. Hard sharp chips are likely to fly out as you work on it, so always wear protection goggles to safe your eyes.

Nails. Nailing wood directly to concrete is probably the simplest, quickest and cheapest method. Unfortunately, once driven, these nails may jar loose from a few hammer blows to the side of the board. So, they are good for temporary fastening.

Carpentry Framing

You'll normally find two types of extra nails at the hardware store, cut nails and hardened concrete nails. Drive nails with a 2- to 4-lb. Hammer. Actually, it's very hard to drive nails into cured (hardened) concrete, even with a 4-lb. Hammer. They work best in concrete that's only cured for a few days.

Nails can be quite effective in mortar joints, however. Mortar is softer than either the concrete block or brick, and it holds nails fairly well. For best results, drive them right along the joint edge. And here's a expert tip: for improved holding power, run a bead of glue along the backside of your wood before nailing it up.

Predrilled Fasteners. There is a house of fasteners that can be driven into a predrilled hole. These not only fasten wood to concrete, but will fasten just about anything else to concrete as well.

They setup easily, simply drill through the wood and into the concrete and drive the fastener.

Drilling the hole is the only difficult part. Use a carbide tip bit. Because these holes are relatively small, your proper 1/4-inch or 3/8 inch power drill can do an adequate job, although each hole may take several minutes to bore. A hammer drill, however, will drill your hole in a matter of seconds. A hammer drill is expensive, but they can be rented. If you have a lot of holes to drill, they'll save a lot of time.

It's a good idea to glue your wood to the concrete or masonry with this law as well, especially when using screws. Once screws are jarred loose, they may not retighten.

Expansion Fasteners. These fasteners are simple, effective and can carry a heavy load. They may be retightened should they be jarred loose.

Because they need a larger hole, you precisely need a hammer drill to bore the concrete. If you can't buy, borrow or rent one, try boring a 1/8 inch hole first with a carbide bit. Then use progressively larger carbide bits until you reach the allowable size.

Buy these fasteners long adequate to wedge into the concrete as deep as the wood is thick. Drill your hole an extra 1/4 inch deep, since the bolt draws back slightly when tightened.

Power Fasteners. These are highly fast, suited and dangerous. They are primarily expert tools which any untrained homeowner should steer clear of until they fully comprehension the protection precautions. With power fasteners you can speedily nail into just about any concrete or masonry surface. Both the air and the power-actuated systems drive hardened nails through the wood and solidly into the concrete in one shot. Flying metal, wood or concrete are certain hazards, so eye protection is essential.

Glue. Over the past ten years building adhesives have improved and become more specialized. You can securely glue just about anything to a wall now. Since glued wood must be held tightly in place until the glue sets, it's handy to use an adhesive with someone else fastening law for mutual reinforcement; the glue dampens the vibration and jarring that may weaken the fasteners, and the fasteners hold the wood tightly until the glue sets.

Proper preparation ensures a good glue bond. Be sure the wood and the concrete surfaces are clean and dry. Loose paint, face chalking or moisture will cause the bond to release. When working with a very rough surface, apply a generous bead to bridge the wider gaps in the middle of the wood and concrete.

Attaching Wood To Concrete

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